Drive cup sleeves

[andyken]

Busted another rear cup...I did the copper sleeve, now breaking at the drive pin .

 

[TheCount]

Hey guys just thought I should share with you all, thanks to a post, posted by Idly 666 I did follow his idea about getting a 3/4 type L copper pipe for drive cups sleeves and man, that fits and work perfect made rings for my XT and install them raw also did made for my Mt as well but I wrap the rings with CF vinyl for a little bling. Home depot sell's the pipe 2' long around 10 bucks a piece. Again thanks Idly666.PS. U got love this forum.

Great tip. I'm about to do this to my MT.

Going by the pic it doesn't look like the ring is very wide?

Would it be better to cover as much of the cup as possible or is just a ring around the end ok?

 

[Dreggsta]

just me maybe but i'd cover the whole thing as stress can form hairline cracks. i'd cut them about 3/4" long. i did my son's xt at 5/8" & it wasn't long enough to my liking. my experience is that you make something stronger then it will find the next weak link so do the whole cup IMO. also, i had to file the lip of the edge i was sliding over the cup to get it on & then i could tap it on w/a hammer. make sure to drop a lil super glue or something on the cup to keep the copper there. my 2 cents.

 

[Michaels12]

I like Dreggstas suggestion. I would use a bearing mount agent/adhesive.

I used quite a lot of it over the years. I'm sure there are several types and brands.

Like this

http://www.jegs.com/p/Loctite/LOCTITE-Bearing-Mount/2342113/10002/-1

 

[TheCount]

I went to the hardware today.I found these joiners $1.50 each that are the perfect length when i cut them in half.Only problem is, here in Australia we have metric pipe. The cups are 20mm & so is the pipe. I'll take them to work tonight & use the press to expand them so they will fit.Fingers crossed.





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[andyken]

I used channel lock pliers, and made them sort of oval shape, like the cup...and used red lock tite.

 

[TheCount]

Here are the completed sleeves. 20 mm expanded over a 20 mm steel rod with the press. Tight fit on the cups. I had to tap them on with a hammer.Finished off with a buff.Tomorrow I will fit the rest of the cups & install the boots as well.





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[Dreggsta]

the boots won't fit on the front cvd's bc of clearance isues at te hub. they will fit over the rest tho.

 

[TheCount]

the boots won't fit on the front cvd's bc of clearance isues at te hub. they will fit over the rest tho.

I have fitted them on the front cv's already. They don't go on as far as the inners, but far enough. Used some heat shrink to keep them there.

Here's a vid of a manufactured sleeve for BAJA's. not sure if they would fit RedCats.

 

[Dreggsta]

yeh they'll go on but not at the hub. might get a 1/16" of an inch on there or close to it. good thinking on the heat shrink.

 

[Ildy666]

Looks good.I'm so glad people used my idea i like being helpful and its nice to save money for something else plus the satisfaction of making ur own parts... ENJOY...

 

[TheCount]

Yeah it was one of those, " it's so simple why didn't I think of that " ideas.

Keep 'em coming i need all the help i can get.

 

[Ildy666]

Ok if u have a tgn air filter put a 1" round x3" long spring in there to keep it from collapsing in on its self.more air space better air flow...

 

[TheCount]

FINALLY finished!!! What a mammoth job that was. Sleeves & boots on ALL drive cups. Getting the boots on the rear input & the center front side was an effort. They are a tight fit with the sleeves. I removed the motor & both diffs. but the rear diff front was hard ass cause the fuel tank & left no room to wrangle the boot on when i refitted the diff into the chassis.Now she is ready for a trip to the beach. Probably should not have done it after night shift with no sleep.









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[rampagemt]

Looks great dude. Keep an eye out on those pins and boots once you hit the sand cuz it will get in there. Did you grease them? I believe the dune Baja junkies don't run any boots

 

[TheCount]

Didn't grease them. I want to test run it all before i commit to that, if at all. I will strip it after the beach run anyway.

I think i will put heat shrink on the small ends to seal them better, they are a bit sloppy on the axle shaft.

 

[TheCount]

Tested out the boots & cup sleeves today.2 tanks later, I found the weak link in the drive train.Should i replace these with the rear end set up of dog bones.Does look like i can put sleeves on these though, same dia as the inners & enough clearance in the hub.





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[Michaels12]

Well, the recent Tornado has slowed me down, or that's my excuse.

I've got the sleeves cut (4130 CrMo), but not sized. I need to go get a hone to size the sleeves. (This next part maybe somewhat extreme for some)

The part I think might help in this,and other areas is the use of Dry film lube.

This dry lube would help wear and any binding. I used it in aircraft years ago, and its a somewhat popular coating for piston skirts. I'm sure a lot of you are familiar with this lubricant. It's basically MoS2 and some graphite with a laquer vehicle( carrier).

The best type of this product I have used is Dow Corning 321. It has some extraordinary properties, but it has become expensive and hard to find, not like it was some years ago.

I think it would be a great treatment for any metal on metal contact. The best part is the dry aspect of its properties...ie no accumulation of foreign material.

I did used several products that claimed to be "dry moly", but they failed to performe as well as the 321. I'm waiting on a response from someone still in aircraft, because $50.00

for a spray can seemed ....a little over the top.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

 

[Dreggsta]

Count, you broke it right in the middle. That's where mine sit w/the o-rings put in. I thot bout putting rings round them & might still also later.

Michaels, I like your info & idea. I put some Lucas HD oil stabilizer on mine as it's super sticky. But I like the idea of a dry lube. Btw, isn't "dry lube" an oxymoron?

 

[Michaels12]

Dreggsta,

I was highly skeptical about this " dry lube ", but it has performed well in many severe

applications.

Here's a PDF for a look at its properties

http://krayden.com/tds/dow_321_tds.pdf

I'm not sure what I would do with a case of this stuff, but thats what im looking at right now...like a lot of stuff it has become more difficult to obtain, or is cost prohibitive to use.