XB-E muggy 1340 kv

[DUFFY]

I’m running a XL2 with a leopard 1350kv on 6s just fine so far! I’m not the only one running this set up that seems to be happy. You can program the esc to cut off at a set amp rating so high amps are not a problem. I am now running 100% power and 90% punch control. It runs slightly hot; I’m geared very high and ill need to gear down soon. At the ESC setting I'm running, the castle xl2 is smooth and no cogging other than what is caused by my crappy radio. I knew I would have some issues with parts needing lock tight, which I have found, the adapters and pinion need a decent amount of lock tight to hold up to the horse power. That said I'm running top of the line batteries with huge amp draw ratings, not junk ones. I think the 1350kv is just the right match for 6s on a car this size. The 1700kv motor runs super hot so this is a better choice than that motor. The leopard is the motor you need if you want to stick to 6s, and its fine for 8s as well, although 8s is the max for that. In short the XL2 can run on 6s if you have the right set up. Mine runs slightly hotter than I would like but its just fine for 15 minutes of flight. I might get another esc in the future as more and more pop up capable of handling 1/5-scale amps ratings. Ill posts some of the watt stats later. I was hitting about 4 hp at 60 percent power so im guessing at 100% power it will be getting about 6hp, maybe a tad lower or higher. Ill let you know after i check data log. I plan on gearing all the way down to 10-48. As of now I limit runs to 15 minutes then stop and let it cool down. The batteries are cool the whole run but the esc and motor are hot, because of gearing. As of now I’m one of the few, the proud, the happy owner of a working castle Xl2.


The rear bearing holders from 7075 and the motor mount are the first things I would tell any one to buy for their XB-E. I made a custom bumper from a shock tower from a old emaxx. It blows apart in hard wrecks but I’m not breaking anything else. I may wield a U-bolt under the chassis to prevent any flex. It doesn’t seem to matter other than crashes at top speed then you might bend a drive shaft. It’s a rocket-powered bulldozer.

 

[DUFFY]

Update

OK after about 20 more runs since this was first posted I can report everything is fine. The mamba xl2 is working and so is the leopard 6592 1340kv, getting about 7hp. I may run 6s 2p after I get my pinion from 7075rc I ordered about a week ago. This should get me to my goal mph/ run time… I will test in a few months, the plan for the next month though, for this rig, is to run one 6s and gear down and have fun. I am horribly over geared now, but every thing is still working fine, with no cogging!!!!!

New plans,

Before buying the castle esc, I was running 6s 2p on my stock system and everything was nice and cool. Then I added the 7075rc motor mount and huge hpi wheels thus increasing the gearing a lot. This bogged the stock motor down and so I started an endless quest trying to find some motor/esc options for 6s to 12s operating voltages for large-scale cars. (Instead of gearing down like I should of in the first place) Looking at all the 1/5-scale car/truck RC forums was helpful but not as much help as one would think. After looking and talking to golf E-cart companies and robotic parts ware house stores I saw on searching on Google-, I found some very good but unrealistic options for a motor controller, because of the cost wise, size and interface problems, I came to my senses decided I still wanted a hobby esc with all the bells and shiny bits. This then lead me to the large-scale boat forums; lots of information and a lot of proven options are there for the boats. lot of people running 5692 sized motors try using 6s 2p. Every one begrudging head nods on the large-scale boat forums that a 5692 1340KV motor and a 6s system is fine for sport sport/fun (SLOWER) applications on the smaller/lighter end of large-scale boats and cars. I just wanted a reliable really fast (for 6s!) basher for now and that’s what I got. I will also mention allot run 8s, lipo on this motor and they say it’s the way to go, if you have room... They all claim they are getting better runs times and about the same temp, but the thing they are not getting across to the land guys is huge… They are running 4-5-6 6s lipos in some crazy wiring mess, or running 2x speed controllers and 4x 6s lipos!!!! Either way it will be expensive/heavy, though I might try a 12s set up in the next few months. I will test a few 8s and 12s esc choices from as many brands as I can afford and I can sneak past my girlfriend. The Toro esc looks like a nice option to run 6s 2p or 8s 2p, Of course the motor will be rather hot after 30 min but the esc should be nice and cool. Perhaps a system using LiFe batteries would be cool to try on this scale. I have my eyes on the MGM compro ESC, Rc madness is selling.

This current set up is slightly slower than a HV, low Kv system, but it will provide the run times and speeds I’m after. Other than trying 6s2p, I’m going to leave this car alone as far as esc/lipos as an example of a rather cost effective, much faster than stock, reliable motor/esc/one 6sbatt option for XBE owners and other light 1/5 RC car. Run time is on par or better (in 6s2p) than most 8s conversions for HPI Baja. I must say the leopard is really smooth and I was really relieved when my car did not cog like so many videos of 5b and 5b conversions I had seen. Run times on a 6000 mah 6s are about 15 min, 2 will be about 30. The run time was much longer (10 min more or 40 minutes total on 6s2p) on the stock motor/esc but that was slow. This is a set up for anyone wanting to have a real 1/5 size motor and with out selling a liver.

IF you buy the castle combo use 8S with the 2028. That motor is to low in Kv for 6s, it wont work right or it will straight break the esc, I have been told this by many. The esc can handle 6s just not with that motor. I would just buy a big esc costing $700 if you want to use that motor and I might have to do that myself,

IM now looking for a used retcat to start a 12s or 8s 2p project for bragging rights vs losi 5t owners. I really think 12s is kind of stupid, but if it’s going be an arms race… so be it☹

I should point out that the hpi disc brake kits sold on eBay and engage RC might be able to be used on a retcat xbe if you have the hpi wheel adapters. This may serve a purpose by taking stress off the esc. I am not sure if this is needed. It also will be a less sensitive/advanced way to stop compared to esc that is definitely easier to race with than a servo controlled brake. Has anyone tried or seen some one try this on a redcat?

If any one has a lehner motor or neu in their xbe plz post I would like to see!

 

[Deluge]

Sounds awesome, dude. I've seen one member try a disc brake setup, but it was on a gasser. If I remember correctly, he used an FG kit.

 

[krashkrieg]

Excellent stuff Duffy, please keep us updated and how bout some pics

You said you are running a little tall with current setup....what is the gearing you are using now? (I am running Leop 1340 as well with stock ESC and 11/48....but want to go a little taller)

 

[DUFFY]

Im running a 16 tooth pinion-48 spur lol , it gets the motor kinda hot when its 95 degrees out, so hot I shut after 7 min so I shut it off to cool. I really need my new pinion I was thinking of a high speed run and only a high speed run when I got my motor mount. I attached some thumb nails at the bottom of the first post, they seem to work for me? I just bought a second XB-E off ebay!It has 4x 7075 bearing holders and front c-hubs, and stock esc/motor/stock mount. I am very happy with my redcat, so having two so I can race with my buds seems like a good idea. I also have a Hpi flux 5t conversion thats really sick. Its awesome looking and fun to jump, but im just not as interested in it as the redcat. The hpi gets the salute for being able to be chucked off a bridge and not break but it handles a lot worse. The HPi is also a complete pain to work on in comparison. Getting the gear mesh right for instance, some thing that should be easy, is like pulling teeth..Ill post pics of the two xb-e rampages next to each other and some videos of drag races stock XB-E vs upgraded XB-E vs hpi conversion.

I was also looking into a center diff mod for the xb-e but that seems to be a bad idea. As it would recoil and break things at the same time heat up like crazy. Owners of other 1/5 scale 4x4 cars with center diffs say its not worth it to just be able to wheeley stand and break some thing shortly after coming down. The mass of 1/5 scale seems to be the reason. Kinda nice to know since alot of us were kinda wanting one. Even though some one might cook one up, I wont be tying it.

The out side bearing in the front diff holding the drive shaft cup went out and caused some extra wear on one of the gears, I knew it was broke but i just wanted to run a few more times before tearing down!( I was lazy) I fixed it after running today and everything is running smooth so i guess its a none issue

My next purchase will be a BiG expensive esc. Maybe some time next month after rent is paid

 

[DUFFY]

 

[Deluge]

Looks awesome, dude.

 

[krashkrieg]

Car looks great, I like what you did with the front bumper with shocks....let us know how it works when you hit something...lol...

 

[Guest]

Very nice!

Good wright BTW, lots of good info.

 

[krashkrieg]

Im running a 16 tooth pinion-48 spur lol

Wow, I definately want to get a 12 13 and 14 to test them out...

 

[DUFFY]

junky videos

Here are some crappy short vids of the car. The sound on these two videos never really work. Its just light fooling goofing around in a smallish area. I was basically just getting a feel for the slow start of the esc and steering voltage for the servo. The second video you can see a decent crash as I do a small jump and land sideways nailing a drain pipe cover(you can't see the drain) sending my car flipping and sailing into the woods. It may not look like much in the video, but it went like 25feet away from where it first bounced. Nothing broke! The car may not look crazy fast to most people in this unedited video. I'm in a small area, but I think you can tell its better than stock. The very first launch from a dead stop at the start of the first video; gives you idea of what drag racing a gas 1/5 scale Losi or HPI would look like though! The crash gives you an idea of the inertia and g -forces this relatively light 1/5scale car displays even at low speeds lol. I only give it full throttle a few times and only for a a little bit, there is not much room, really no room for the gearing I'm running,I really need to sit and count the teeth on my spur and make sure its not in fact a 44! I deleted my order confirmation e-mail from 7075rc months ago, so now ill just have to count the teeth. The mount sat in a box a few months as I was moving I lost the box it came in, and in all confusion resulting, I'm second guessing my memory! IN any case everything works fine after a tons of runs either way, Im just getting ready to get things cool enough for a 30 min run time on 6s,2p, and I want to double check everything before I do. Remember this is just a single 6s battery, albeit a good one.

The "shock bumper" works great, the clips I hold the front of the shocks to the bumper, bend and fall off after a crash once in a while. It flexes about 2 inches before the shocks bottom out, and another inch or so on the plastic. It really seems to help in head on crashes at least. I more or less crash or flip a lot its kinda what bashing is about. If you don't have a bumper you should get a aftermarket or redcats truck bumper.

Off topic safety note----My dog had puppies and she is displaying nesting habits , yeh that means she is being bad cause she knows she can... tore up some trash when I was inside the house. I walked outside to the mess and decided to just run the car, so don't think I leave wrappers and papers laying in my yard, lol. I cleaned it up right after. I did and do put my dogs away when running my car, because if you hit your dog with a XB-E you might break its legs. I should stay a longer distance away from the car myself, I just was having a lot of fun.

Hope the links work_

 

[Guest]

Looks like she moves pretty good!

 

[DUFFY]

Cool thanks, I was happy with it.

 

[Deluge]

That thing is quick, dude.

 

[BoukeG]

Cool, I'm still waiting on the lipos and parts from 7075. However your car moves fast! Does the motor get any hot? I'm thinking about getting a leopard motor but which kv would you recommend? I'm planning on racing this thing against other 1/5 scale non electric...

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[DUFFY]

I would say the motor runs slightly hotter than some people will tolerate in their systems. In this system/gearing no fan yet, that adds up to be slightly hotter than a 1/8th scale castle system does in an e-revo on 4s. And I have no fan on the motor, yet. I am on 6s; if you want to have a cooler option and stick to 6s you could try TP power. They make the same motor, in size and kv. The tp power motor looks like it has vents so it should run cooler just because of that. It will how ever let some dirt and crap in the motor. So what one will last longer I don’t want to speculate. Posts on TP Power motors are all positive that I have found. I heard some people not liking leopard motors but mine is fine. I have ran it so many times its proven itself to me. I will put a fan on it and be ok with this gearing I think. I would like to test 6s2p Im not sure if the castle xl2 esc can take it though, im not going to mess with it. The heat is not much of a problem as it works fine within this run time. Going to 30 mins or more will heat things up for sure.

If your racing a gas truck in a short race say 10 min what ever, you will beat them pretty good with this set up. If you race for a half hour your battery changes will off set the time gained in performance a lot. The longer the race the more gas gets a advantage. If you want to do one battery change during the race this set up would work. Maybe plan on two as it will give you a nice cool battery. IF you don’t want to do any battery changes I would buy a bigger ESC and spend some big bucks to run 8s 2p. Going 12s will add a lot of weight if you wanted a 30 minute run time.

It all depends on your goal or compromise on speed and run time/ heat/ being able to control your car. If you run 12s you will look crazy but you will also fly out of control more often than the next guy. Crash once in a race and all the speed really just slowed you down, for how ever long it takes to get the car off the ground and back moving. 12s will also be hard to get to 30 mins other than running four 6s batteries and would be very costly indeed if one of the 6s batts fried and then fried the other 3 next to it. IF heat is a major concern I would go lower than 1340kv its hella fast an the motor and works for me. The TP power motor might be a better bet for you in a lower kv.

So I got my second xb-e in the mail off ebay. Everything looked ok and the esc fired up and beeped loud as hell. I was like wow a used RC off ebay with a working esc NO way I can be this lucky. I laid the buggy out in the grass then gave it some gas. A very horrible sound came out of the center motor mount. The pinion was loose so I cranked it back down with out lock tight just to keep testing. The car moved but it was slow and something was just not right. Looking at the buggy closer I can see some damage from shipping must broke something/ or it was broke before it was shipped. The pin holding the rear hub is broke, letting the dog bone out. SO I was in front wheel drive only. It’s a pipe dream to get a 100% working used RC car off ebay- for me at least.

I’m going to tear down the diffs and clean everything before my next run.

Im going to go threw and check all the bearings and clean the diffs on the “used xbe’, this week. The previous owner put the wrong size dog bone in the rear left drive cups. This lead to a lot of wear as its way to short and slides around. The rear cvds are a decent amount ☹!I might just buy a dog bone.

I found out on some other forums people have no problems with using real car grease in the diffs for gassers? One of my friends advised against it. Well so I had all ready put the grease in so I thought I would test it one run. Seemed ok as the diffs didn’t heat up and the handling was pretty nice. Then I touched my stock motor and esc it was heating up the temps on the stock motor/ esc system higher than it was before ! A huge amount! I guess this is from the added resistance of the grease vs an actual fluid. Im going to use real rc diff fluid when I rebuild from now on.

I got a fighter cat 300amp car esc and im going to wire it up to a 3s batt for testing. Im going to use the stock xbe motor or a flux tork motor and the programming box for bench testing.

 

[Guest]

Nice write up. Lots of good info.

 

[DUFFY]

I'm running 16-48 with these tires that is about 65mph, heh, 12-48 is 49 mph I think I'm going run that incase I ever go to a race on 6s2p. Now it just good for fun and running down cocky 1/8 scale monster trucks. At least we know we can push it this far on a XL2 esc on 6s for bashing and speed runs with with out breaking the esc and diffs

 

[DUFFY]

*

 

[BoukeG]

Great info, thanks! Also very cool images, 2x xbe next to each other. Makes me smile...

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