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My engine won't start no matter what I do!!?

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Ok racers..... after fixing my differential I started it up with no problem. Ran it away and then back. All of a sudden the engine stops idling and dies on me. I figure no problem and try to start it again. IT WON'T START NO MATTER WHAT I DO!!!!!! I tried:


1. new spark plug


2.un-flooding the engine


3. cleaned the stock spark plug with carb fluid then re-use stock plug


4. reset the spacing of ignition coil and clean the magnets of dirt


5. factory reset of needle. (turned high speed out 1 1/2 turns, and the low 1 1/4 turns) recommended by Derek Redcat Support


It just won't start!!!!!!! Dam! What else could be wrong! My arm hurt now :(


Reference of previous post!


http://www.redcatrampageforum.com/showthread.php?t=7272


http://www.redcatrampageforum.com/showthread.php?t=7279


--------------------------------------------------------------------


Below is a pix of my XB hugging the wall for un-flooding over night. He's on time out for being a bad XB!!!! Racers please help me out!
 
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ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
I'm really starting to lose faith in my engine.... Something tells me its something serious. What could it be? All of a sudden it just stop idling and dies on me, then won't start again? I wanted to run it but can't because of the dumb engine! By the way un-flooding didn't work for me too. Please help me people if you can.
 

rcgasser

Senior Member
Messages
2,383
Location
Atlanta, GA
Its just so hard to tell you what to do online without being able to see the engine for ourselves. I would just start going down the list that deluge provided or take it to your local lawn mower shop or hobby shop and have them look at it.
 

DemonRC

Senior Member
Messages
1,846
Location
Houston, TX
Deluge said:
That's the best way to go about diagnosing any engine problems.

Do this before doing anything else. 9 out of 10 times a stock 2 olt engine will suddenly stop running from a broken head gasket. Take a flasklight and look where the cylinder head meets the crankcase. You should be able to see gasket sticking out all the way around. If you see a gap then your gasket is blown out at that location. Remove the fancover when doing this so you can see all the way around the head.

Also, there are four things that an 2 stroke engine needs to run: Air, fuel, compression, and an ignition source. Let's test for each one.

1) Ignition Test: Remove your spark plug but leave the ignition wire attached to it. Touch the end of the plug to the metal around the spark plug hole and pull the pullstart a few times. Do you see a spark?

If you do not see a spark you can remove your killswitch and failsafe to validate that they are not the problem.

2) Compression Test: This is easy enough. Just remove the fancover and turn the flywheel with your hand. It should get hard to turn when the piston reaches the top. Make sure your spark plug is in before doing this.

If your compression is shot, remove your exhaust and turn the engine over until the piston is at the bottom most position. Take a flashlight and look inside the cylinder. Do you see any gouges, smudges, or deep lines of any sort?

3) Fuel Test: Pour about 1/2 tablespoon of fuel into the spark plug hole and put the spark plug back in. Try starting the engine. Does it want to start?

After pouring a little fuel down the hole if the engine wants to start but then suddenly stops chances are your engine is not getting any fuel from the carb. In this case I would check to make sure the carb bolts are tight and there are no leaks in the gaskets between the carb and the engine.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
DemonRC said:
That's the best way to go about diagnosing any engine problems. Do this before doing anything else. 9 out of 10 times a stock 2 olt engine will suddenly stop running from a broken head gasket. Take a flasklight and look where the cylinder head meets the crankcase. You should be able to see gasket sticking out all the way around. If you see a gap then your gasket is blown out at that location. Remove the fancover when doing this so you can see all the way around the head.

Also, there are four things that an 2 stroke engine needs to run: Air, fuel, compression, and an ignition source. Let's test for each one.

1) Ignition Test: Remove your spark plug but leave the ignition wire attached to it. Touch the end of the plug to the metal around the spark plug hole and pull the pullstart a few times. Do you see a spark?

If you do not see a spark you can remove your killswitch and failsafe to validate that they are not the problem.

2) Compression Test: This is easy enough. Just remove the fancover and turn the flywheel with your hand. It should get hard to turn when the piston reaches the top. Make sure your spark plug is in before doing this.

If your compression is shot, remove your exhaust and turn the engine over until the piston is at the bottom most position. Take a flashlight and look inside the cylinder. Do you see any gouges, smudges, or deep lines of any sort?

3) Fuel Test: Pour about 1/2 tablespoon of fuel into the spark plug hole and put the spark plug back in. Try starting the engine. Does it want to start?

After pouring a little fuel down the hole if the engine wants to start but then suddenly stops chances are your engine is not getting any fuel from the carb. In this case I would check to make sure the carb bolts are tight and there are no leaks in the gaskets between the carb and the engine.
I will most likely take my carb apart to see what's going on. Will check for damage and gasket issue. Will all the fuel leak when I unscrew the bolts? Anything I should know regarding taking it apart properly?
 

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
You're better off getting a new carb. Trying to salvage the stock carb is a waste of money. Get yourself a 668 and be done with it.

Now for removing the carb and checking the gaskets, here's a vid.

They cover carb removal at 3:33. Inspect the gaskets for damage.

[ame]

[/ame]
 

RampageHopUps

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,865
Location
Chandler, AZ
What city in Cali do you live in? There are alot of Baja guys I know out there that can help you if they are close.
 

RampageHopUps

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,865
Location
Chandler, AZ
I will tell Derek tommorrow that the stock carb setting have changed with the new HY carbs. We tuned a MOnster Truck at the track and it was way off the stock Zenoah carbs.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
You're better off getting a new carb. Trying to salvage the stock carb is a waste of money. Get yourself a 668 and be done with it.Now for removing the carb and checking the gaskets, here's a vid.

They cover carb removal at 3:33. Inspect the gaskets for damage.

I agree! Thanks Deluge! Do I have to buy new linkage for my servos if I replace my carb? Or can I use my old linkage? Custom linkage is require?
 
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