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CVA joints

Wayne

Member
Messages
101
Location
Maryland
The Thank you was for you also and anyone else that took the time to assist me with a problem I was having. That is why I refer to this forum when I do have a question or problem, the members are extremely helpfull.
 

kydo32

Senior Member
Messages
353
when switching to dogbones if I use either fuel line or ear plugs .how do you know when you have the right length without them binding . how do you tell if to much or to little. I had stock on front jumped once and both were twisted and I had fuel tube in diff cups not sure if was to much.
 

rcgasser

Senior Member
Messages
2,383
Location
Atlanta, GA
More then likley the twisting of the dog bone came from landing from the jump on throttle not the fuel tube. You just want to put in just enough for the dog bone not to slide out just a very little play.
 

rcgasser

Senior Member
Messages
2,383
Location
Atlanta, GA
LOL I am sure you have notice how your dog bone slides back and forth in the drive cups well sometimes if you are turning and the dog bone catches the right spot they can fall out. If you put something inside the drive cups ( I use small o rings) it will tighten the dog bones in the drive cups so they don't fall out.
 

Silent_chaos

Senior Member
Messages
905
rcgasser said:
LOL I am sure you have notice how your dog bone slides back and forth in the drive cups well sometimes if you are turning and the dog bone catches the right spot they can fall out. If you put something inside the drive cups ( I use small o rings) it will tighten the dog bones in the drive cups so they don't fall out.
Do you have a picture? Im having the same problem. My CVD keeps falling out of the diff cup. I was told to use fuel lines and copper rod, but did know how.

Any pics would highly be appreciated
 

kydo32

Senior Member
Messages
353
Silent_chaos said:
Do you have a picture? Im having the same problem. My CVD keeps falling out of the diff cup. I was told to use fuel lines and copper rod, but did know how.Any pics would highly be appreciated
yes pics would be helpful also what size O-rings do you use?
 

bigfol

Senior Member
Messages
577
Location
Avoca Beach,NSW, Australia
The o-ring goes inside the cup, o'ring first then the dog bone.....
 

Silent_chaos

Senior Member
Messages
905
bigfol said:
The o-ring goes inside the cup, o'ring first then the dog bone.....
Ok, correct me if I'm wrong but the Oring that we are talking about is the Carbon ring, right?

The way I see it, this will fortify the cup and tighten it.. won't this still slip? Won't the pin just slide through? Since there is still nothing stopping the pin from falling outside.

And if it tightens the cup enough to hold it, The way I see it, the dogbone must play inward and outward the cup, the setup above limits the suspension travel of the car on offroad terrain.

I maybe wrong but this is good on onroad cars where no significant suspension travel is needed.

This needs the below solution.

 
Last edited by a moderator:

rcgasser

Senior Member
Messages
2,383
Location
Atlanta, GA
No the o ring goes inside the diff cup as he stated it is not the carbon around the cup. What you have circled in the pic is for a CVA joint and a diff cup is the top one. The o ring is not to hold in any pin its to not have as much play from the dogbone in the cups.
 

MTMIKE

Senior Member
Messages
142
Location
Indiana
RCgasser, so you have the diff cup on the rear end and the diff cup outer axle that the wheel hub connects to with a dogbone in between the two. Down inside one of the diff cups you put a real small o-ring to take up the slack so the dogbone does not slide back and forth. This has no effect on driving, turning, or bashing correct? You would think at some point that slack would be needed on a hard landing from a big jump? Am I thinking correct now?
 

rcgasser

Senior Member
Messages
2,383
Location
Atlanta, GA
Yes that is correct on how you do the o ring and no it does not have any effect on the driving and bashing that's why I like to use the o rings it will have some give more the fuel lines would on a hard landing and then go back to a lil play in the area so you are correct on what you are thinking.
 

MTMIKE

Senior Member
Messages
142
Location
Indiana
RC if the o rings are small enough do you put one in both sides of dogbone? I will try this to see how it works. Thanks for the help!
 

rcgasser

Senior Member
Messages
2,383
Location
Atlanta, GA
MTMIKE said:
RC if the o rings are small enough do you put one in both sides of dogbone? I will try this to see how it works. Thanks for the help!
Yes in each cup on both sides a few time I have had to use more then 1 o rings per cup to take up more slack. You are welcome.
 

XBENOOB

Senior Member
Messages
262
Location
Hanover Ontario, Canada
I cut the spring out of a AA battery box and put them in the diff cups. They compress almost flat, and bounce right back. Keeps the dog bones centered.

 

Silent_chaos

Senior Member
Messages
905
Silent_chaos said:
Ok, correct me if I'm wrong but the Oring that we are talking about is the Carbon ring, right? The way I see it, this will fortify the cup and tighten it.. won't this still slip? Won't the pin just slide through? Since there is still nothing stopping the pin from falling outside.

And if it tightens the cup enough to hold it, The way I see it, the dogbone must play inward and outward the cup, the setup above limits the suspension travel of the car on offroad terrain.

I maybe wrong but this is good on onroad cars where no significant suspension travel is needed.

This needs the below solution.

Both of the cups are for the differential. The above one is for Redcat.

I feel useless here :/

I do not know why is so hard for me to grasp the o ring concept and the fuel line concept.

Is the fuel line put on the pin to eliminate the 2mm play of the pin touching the diff cup?

All I want is the axle not to slip outside the diff cup as you mentioned.

I guess I will have to weld a U clip on each opening of the diff cup so that it resembles more the Baja (circled red) so that the pin would have more distance to travel and eventually be locked and not to slip away. This whole thing would be solved if there exists a 6mm taller pin to pin axle
 

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