Upgrades 4 dummies

[Ice_2k]

Hi guys,


I'm the soon-to-be proud owner of a 32cc Dunerunner (I should get it around february 20th, thanks Rob for hooking me up ).


I am not new to R/C but I am new to 5th scale and gas engines (actually any kind of termic engines, I only had electrics until now). I want to start upgrading my DR and make it as badass and as reliable as possible, however I am seeing a lot of upgrades listed by you guys and some of them I have no idea what are good for and I'm guessing all noobies might find themselves in this situation.


As such, I though it would be useful to have a thread where the guys with more experience can better explain what each upgrade does and when you should use it.


So, here's my list:

1. "8000 rpm clutch" - I know what the clutch does, but what does this upgrade achieve? Better durability? Anything else? What does the "8000 rpm" signify? What happens at that rpm? How many rpm is the standard clutch?
   
2. "tank vent kit" - why is this necessary? what does it achieve?
   
3. "intake manifold" - ditto
   
4. "carburator" - I saw someone mention that carbs without choke levers can be started by "manually choking" with a plastic bag. Does anyone have a youtube link or some pictures of how this works? A WT990 carb is definetely on my todo list but I don't want to have problems starting it, especially in the cold.
   
5. "air filter" - I know this is a common upgrade for normal cars, but I didn't see anyone mention it for 5th scale R/Cs. Is this not an upgrade that is usually done for these engines?
   

I think that's about it for now, if anyone else has any ideas of some upgrades that could use explaining, feel free to add it

 

[BertR]

The 8000rpm clutch allows the engagement point higher in the power band to help with sluggish take off. The stock is a 6000k! Tank vent allows for better air/ fuel displacement in the tank to keep the suction force to a minimum in the tank and helps the fuel flow better to the carb.

Stock Intakes have a habit of warping or cracking. Carbs with no choke can be started with a bag.. I am at 5400ft elevation and never had to use a bag on my 813. Filters are for better protection in the conditions that you run.. Sand,dirt or asphalt

 

[Ice_2k]

The 8000rpm clutch allows the engagement point higher in the power band to help with sluggish take off. The stock is a 6000k!

Oh, so the 8k clutch will first let the engine rev up and only then engage, got it. By the way, how high in rpm do these engines go, stock?

Also, is this clutch a direct fit for the 32cc engine in the dunerunner?

Stock Intakes have a habit of warping or cracking.

So this should be ok to only change it in case the stock intake goes bad?

Carbs with no choke can be started with a bag.. I am at 5400ft elevation and never had to use a bag on my 813.

So you just prime it and then pull the cord and it starts?

Filters are for better protection in the conditions that you run.. Sand,dirt or asphalt

I know what the filter is for, the question was if there are "sport" filters available for these engines. I'm asking because it's quite a common upgrade for road cars but I never saw it on anyone's RC upgrade list.

Thanks

 

[RampageHopUps]

Clutches -- I prefer the 6K clutch in my cars. The 8K clutch engages harder and spins the tires on dirt. You have less driveability as well, up to the 15K these engines run.

Alot of people have problems with the stock fuel tank cap, so they vent the tank.

Alot of people use the Baja air filter to give better protection.

 

[phreerider]

That clutch is fine , get the a few spring definitely 9500 lifetime from ddm.

Get a good easy on and off filter , and prefilter cover. If it's dusty don't go without it.

The high clutch spring will cool better with high release as well . Be mindful of clutch pArt flow and type . Do not mix. I like zen clutch stuff though CY is fine .

Carb pipe combo is really gonna add range and power a definite do

 

[Ice_2k]

Clutches -- I prefer the 6K clutch in my cars. The 8K clutch engages harder and spins the tires on dirt. You have less driveability as well, up to the 15K these engines run.

Is the clutch easy to change? Would it make sense to get an 8K for my onroad runs and keep the stock 6K for offroad?

Alot of people use the Baja air filter to give better protection.

You mean this? Is this better than the Dunerunner's filter? Is it a direct fit?

That clutch is fine , get the a few spring definitely 9500 lifetime from ddm.

Sorry, not really sure what you said there

Get a good easy on and off filter , and prefilter cover. If it's dusty don't go without it.

Prefilter cover, got it!

Carb pipe combo is really gonna add range and power a definite do

These are two of the first things on my todo list WT990 & Jetpro rear mount.

 

[RampageHopUps]

The clutch is easy to change, the motor comes out easy to change the clutch.

That is the correct baja airfilter.

A drawstring pre-fitler by outerwears is always a good choice.

 

[phreerider]

the clutch you linked (http://www.davesmotors.com/15448CYHighResponseClutchShoeSpringSet8K.html) from DDM is fine , you can buy separate springs and add to stock clutch or ANY clutch for that matter. DDM has 9500(rpm) spring with lifetime warranty have not broke it yet! i like super hard launch for 4WD off road. 2wd with high response is very difficult to control as compared to 4WD. in my experience on road driving is harder on clutch shoes,... tire size, surface, driving style all really show up at the clutch. throttle control is a central element in performance and clutch wear. find what you like and stick with it.

clutch set up definitely has some check points , esp. NOT TOO tight, its a moving setup, so shoe spring back needs to be verified with simple driver twist.

(parts listed below on clutch link)a piston stop definitely! , and puller if you plan on changing carrier and/or fly wheel as well, there are alternative puller techniques but these basic tools will make it easy

 

[Ice_2k]

@Rob I see. Just out of curiosity, what's wrong with the stock redcat filter that makes it need changing with the baja version?

 

[RampageHopUps]

The BAja filter is a 2 stage filter and has finer filtering for off-road use.

 

[Ice_2k]

Upgrades 4 dummies

@phreerider So you're saying I can just change the spring in the stock clutch to a stronger one? 9500rpm however seems a little extreme, doesn't it? I expect it would cause wheelspin even onroad, won't it?

Not sure what you said about setting up, I didn't know there's anything to setup on a clutch.

Also, what's the piston stop you mentioned? And the puller. No idea what those are

@Rob Thanks! The Baja filter it is then!

 

[MTMIKE]

Piston stop is a tool that screws in where the spark plug is located. It goes down into the cylinder. Then you slowly turn the engine over by hand until the piston hits the stopper tool. It stops the engine from turning over so you can unbolt the flywheel, clutch, etc... The puller is another little tool that after you take the flywheel nut off (using the piston stop tool) there are two little threaded holes on the flywheel. The tool has two long bolts that are threaded through it with a center bolt. The two outside screws thread into flywheel holes and use the center to push on the crankshaft to pull flywheel off.

 

[Ice_2k]

Awesome, thanks for taking the time to write this So basically I'm definitely gonna need the piston stop to change the clutch, good to know.

 

[MTMIKE]

One thing you can do is go looking for the "How to Video's" on these forums and you tube etc. I know they came in real handy many times when I was trying to understand some of this. Many of the vendors, advertisers, and other members have done a great job with posting videos. Welcome to gas powered, you will like it.

 

[Ice_2k]

Yes, I'm doing that, at the moment I'm watching videos on how to tune the carb but it's not so easy to hear the sounds they're talking about from videos...

 

[phreerider]

yeah man, you can just change the spring. several springs to choose from, 6000, 7500, 8000, 9500, and 10,000. the regular springs will break around 100-150 hours of use.

8000 is a good starting point but once you do higher you won't go back!

tuning is sound and response driven, keep looking , keep listening. and some frustrating points like stock carb can only tune so much for the power its gonna produce.

fuel , fire and air its pretty simple... don't kill the pull starter ! 6-10 SLOW pulls for every 1 pop effort . or one finger to plug carb throat (best choke you got for 990)then one pull pop. get your routine down same way everytime.

ton of info out there just ask, we can help sort it ...the tuning, once you get the pipe sound and throttle response in front of you, it will come together with a little practice

 

[Ice_2k]

yeah man, you can just change the spring. several springs to choose from, 6000, 7500, 8000, 9500, and 10,000. the regular springs will break around 100-150 hours of use.

So I can just get this and keep the stock clutch, sweet. Are the clutch shoes ok on the stock clutch?

fuel , fire and air its pretty simple... don't kill the pull starter ! 6-10 SLOW pulls for every 1 pop effort . or one finger to plug carb throat (best choke you got for 990)then one pull pop. get your routine down same way everytime.

When "choking" the carb with the finger, do you pull it hard or slow?

ton of info out there just ask, we can help sort it ...the tuning, once you get the pipe sound and throttle response in front of you, it will come together with a little practice

I hope so, at the moment I'm just researching online, still got about 3 weeks to wait

 

[Ice_2k]

Small issue: https://www.gizmomotors.com/index.php/online-store/rcmk-air-cooled-engines-and-parts/all-common-engine-parts/cy-rc-54mm-hi-performance-8000-rpm-spring-kit-detail

This says that purchasing just the spring of the 8k rpm clutch will cause engaging at 10k rpm when used in the stock clutch.....

Any idea if this fits the dunerunner? 54mm clutch and 8mm holes.

 

[phreerider]

clutch shoe mass may vary from maker to maker a fraction and may produce some differences . detectable difference ? doubtful. detrimental difference? nope.

i have used springs/shoes from varying sources and lots of combos ,never a problem. and the most predictable have been the DDM lifetime stuff...its made specifically separate to be used with just about all 54mm 2 shoe centrif. clutches

the finger choke...(prime bulb) filter off for clear access to carb throat opening, place index finger of Lt. hand in opening while stabilizing unit with hand, with Rt. hand pull starter. most of the time one snappy pull and it pops. second snappy pull (if it needs it) its running. remove finger immediately as it fires.

OR...finger choke one full slow pull , then snap pull 1-3 times w/o finger will do it as well.

ita all about getting fuel in the case. if it has not started , and you smell fuel STOP! remove plug if its wet , take a break, return in 5-10minutes , check for spark. if +...start over. replace plug 1-2 pulls may pop right off, if not, do ur routine. not alot of pulls just consistent in action.

choose one stick with it

 

[Phill]

Clutches -- I prefer the 6K clutch in my cars. The 8K clutch engages harder and spins the tires on dirt. You have less driveability as well, up to the 15K these engines run.Alot of people have problems with the stock fuel tank cap, so they vent the tank.

Alot of people use the Baja air filter to give better protection.

I too prefer the 6k clutch

The higher rpm clutches not only cause wheelspin but by hitting the drivrtrain with higher rpm from a standing start you are subjecting it to greater force and thereore making it more subject to breakage

A 6k clutch is also MUCH more driveable out of corners