Serious Throttle Issues!!! neeeed help

[416pnoy]

Hi guys. I have a brand new Rampage XT but I'm only on the third tank of gas and it's already giving me a headache. So far what Ive done on the XT is just tightened the screws to the plate, put the proper gas/oil ratio. The first tank I just let it idle, second tank I ran it about 10% throttle. (engine break in)


Here's the problem:


Today I went out and play with it and only on my 3rd tank of gas, as I was trying to completely empty the gas I went close to the XT to see if there is still any gas left in the tank as I tried to pick it up the XT just went crazy, I had the Radio on my left hand while trying to lift it and I know for sure my finger was nowhere close to the trigger the XT just started to Accelerate and then I hit the killswitch. So next I put it in a crate to let the wheels off the ground hoping it's just a throttle servo problem, so I turned the receiver On then the XT pulled the cord and its the same problem as soon as it starts it just accelerates to full throttle the throttle servo is in the neutral position, (yes prior to starting the XT I check L/R steering and throttle/brake) they seem to work fine....


Second problem came in as I was trying to diagnose the problem the pull start slipped a couple of times that's when I decided no to mess around with it anymore...


Ill try to take it back to the hobby shop hope theres a warranty on this since Ive only had it for 3 weeks and in the mean time Ill try not to do anything with it yet so I won't void the warranty, but if I end up having to fix it myself any feedback would be greatlly appreciated .


1. Throttle accelerates when RC is started even if the servo didn't move.


2. Pull cord slips.


3. Is a killswitch a good idea and not fully rely on the built in failsafe? If so


what's a good brand to buy and how is the installation?

 

[Cca]

I would pick up this kill switch http://www.davesmotors.com/tr210. If your going to salvage the oem servo I would try and pull the horn off. Try and see if you have full trow of the servo. Also make sure your end point are adjusted correctly. Once centered with power on give it a try again on a stand. If that does nothing you could try and rebind the reciver and give it a try again. Your probably better off planning to by a upgraded one sooner then later IMO.

 

[416pnoy]

I plan on upgrading both steering and throttle servo soon, but for now I don't think it's broken, still on the process of just breaking in. Just wondering why the engine would rev once started... is it maybe one of the H/L needles somehow bacame loose?

 

[BertR]

If the tank gets close to empty it will have a lien condition that will raise the rpm up and down when starving it of fuel. The primer bulb may show full but in fact the pickup line is not getting a full bead of gas.

 

[Guest]

The external failsafe is useless. There is actually one built into the receiver. You must run a kill switch with all gassers.

Running it too lean will raise the rpms.

 

[416pnoy]

CCA I appreciate the link for the KillSwitch, this is definitely the first hop ups I would get since I don't plan on running after a 20lb cinder block.

Bert R Thanx it makes sense..... I've always believe to always try and empty the gas completely after use, I just don't want the fuel sitting in the tank not knowing when Im gonna be playing next.

It makes sense because the 1st tank as it was emptying to the point where you cant see anymore gas in the tank and the gas in the primer bulb starts to decrease and bubble up I did notice the Rpm increases, the same with the second tank then I also noticed a smoke and a plastic burn smell coming from the stock plastic gearplate...

I guess the dealer was right I should look into upgrading the metal gear plate....

Ok now after playing with the XT is it safe to have a little amount on the gas tank and not leave it completely dry? and even if the gas cap is vented should I tighten it very well during play (Runtime)?

New to gasRC

about the failsafe, the engine will shut off once I turn off the receiver or maybe batteries die?

 

[BertR]

Yes on the kill switch and the excess gas in the tank...you can tip the truck and dump back into the jug or discard it how ever your comfortable. Snappy rc has a 3 hole grommet that is a ideal way to vent the tank. The tank cap vent hole is not god enough to do the job. I hope this helps in any way

 

[416pnoy]

Yes someone has told me to get the killswitch on my first post, but since the failsafe works when the receiver is turned off I thought that was enough... I guess I got lucky I had the XT when it went on "rampage"

So I guess when you're running an XT and not knowing you're low on gas the Rpm will increase making the built in failsafe useless...

I try to set everything up right to make my XT last long, is using a blue thread lock recomended on all the screws to the plate? what else should I look out for?

Im coming from a nitro so that makes me a total newb here =)

Ill try and fill the tank halfway tomorrow and not mess around with the needles yet, I actually thought it somehow became loose thats why its revving up so high.

Thanx guys.... Thanx RCDad

 

[BertR]

http://www.davesmotors.com/core/media/media.nl?id=15852&c=885035&h=6387d1b9aed298439e91 This is what most of us use

 

[BertR]

http://www.davesmotors.com/tr210 this is what you need to protect your truck!! in a earlier post I said yes meaning a gas kill switch will shut off the motor when your battery dies or when you shut off the transmitter.failsafe is useless with gas RC.

 

[andyken]

The plastic gear plate from a mt will fit and uses larger bearings

 

[416pnoy]

Thanks BertR... I went to the hobby shop today and like you guys said the rpm goes up when gas is almost empty...

Also found out that the stock pullstarter is crap, its cracked in half after 3 tanks. Now they sold me this Zenoah pull starter. I have doubts they sold me an original one though, it came in a baggie with a "Zenoah" stapled unto it the starter has "SKK/NOK" markings, just wanna know if I'm getting a real deal from my hobbyshop. It cost $44 after taxes, made of plastic just like the stock one and after two times of pull starting I opened it and it started to chip at the end just like the stock one...

How do I know if it's genuine "Made in Japan" Zenoah?

Think Ill start ordering online next time, any good and reliable sites for parts?

Im from Toronto btw. oh and they don't carry the KillerBee KillSwitch, is there any particular model I should order or theyre all the same?

 

[Deluge]

Where exactly are the pull starts breaking? Do you just grab the handle and pull? They do have a plastic pawl and they don't like being abused. It's better to lightly pull the handle until you feel the pawl engage the flywheel, and then yank it. From my experience, the Zen handles have "Start" and "SKK NOK" molded into them. So it sounds legit.

 

[416pnoy]

It's the white plastic that spins and engages to the flywheel that cracked in half, when I start I slowly pull until I can feel the plastic engage with the flywheel or the aluminum "thinggy" =) and also I don't pull the cord all the way.

What I noticed though is I think I might have to pile down the part of the flywheel that comes into contact with the plastic, one side is flat and the other one has a line of metal, Im trying to describe the best I can but you know when you weld two metal and it leaves that scrap on the edges? seems like one didnt get sanded properly.

 

[Guest]

There are a lot of pull starters out there. The metal prawl versions will last longer but all the factory looking pull starters should be considered disposable. It's always good to have a spare. They can be found for under 20 bucks.

Turtle Racing makes a nice pull starter if your looking for a really nice unit.

 

[Deluge]

It's the white plastic that spins and engages to the flywheel that cracked in half, when I start I slowly pull until I can feel the plastic engage with the flywheel or the aluminum "thinggy" =) and also I don't pull the cord all the way. What I noticed though is I think I might have to pile down the part of the flywheel that comes into contact with the plastic, one side is flat and the other one has a line of metal, Im trying to describe the best I can but you know when you weld two metal and it leaves that scrap on the edges? seems like one didnt get sanded properly.

Yeah, that's the pawl. That rough spot could be contributing to your problem. File it down and see how it goes. I've seen high compression engines eat pawls like nothing else, but this shouldn't be happening with a factory engine. Those pawls are replaceable, by the way. You can get a metal one, if need be.

DDM Metal Starter Pawl for Zenoah / CY Engines

Zenoah White RC Starter Pawl

 

[416pnoy]

Thank you all very much for the feedbacks!!!

I've learn so much on this forum that my hobby dealer doesn't want me to know.

I'm still on the process of acquiring a killswitch which is difficult of finding it in hobby shops here in Toronto. Most sites that have them only deliver within US, is there any site I can order for Toronto area?

 

[Deluge]

DDM ships internationally.

International Ordering Information

 

[Guest]

We ship internationally. Its kinda expensive. It costs the same as shipping overseas.