• Welcome to RedcatRampageForum! Are you a Redcat fan? If so you're in luck as you've have arrived to the biggest and best RedcatRampage RC community.

    Come join our community and ask your questions, show off your Recat RCs and share your experience!

Scale Body Options:

crpt_keeper

Junior Member
Messages
23
As Im sure many of you know, there arn't alot of scale options for big cars that don't play on the street.


I have been searching and collecting pics of all kinds of Rally and Sport class cars. Basically anything that could race on a dirty/dirt surface in real life.


Subaru, BMW, Citron, Mitsubishi, Suzuki, Ford, Audi, VW.


What cars do you guys wish were available in 1/5 scale?
 

Ryneito

Senior Member
Messages
191
Location
Greeley Colorado
All the above lol..

The Suby body for the old Redcat onroad is sweet. I'm a fan of any Rally body as long as it looks good..The new grafil body looks cool but still not to my liking. Would be sweet to see some modern muscle cars too. Corvette c6r, new Camaros, mustangs ect..
 

reckone

Member
Messages
67
Location
Rotterdam, NY
Ryneito said:
All the above lol..The Suby body for the old Redcat onroad is sweet. I'm a fan of any Rally body as long as it looks good..The new grafil body looks cool but still not to my liking. Would be sweet to see some modern muscle cars too. Corvette c6r, new Camaros, mustangs ect..
I agree! C6r body and a BMW body would be cool. Most of the FG bodies I like, but they are not much of a fit for the Redcats.
 

blak__jak

Senior Member
Messages
483
Location
amsterdam ohio
Youv'e got to wonder why proline isn't taking advanage of the 1/5 scale market. I know I and many others would being throwing money their way if they did. You know one that would really be cool is a 55 56 or 57 chevy nomad. It could cover up our motors and roll cages and would keep most of the crap out of our trucks. Just wishful thinking!!!
 

bob c.

Senior Member
Messages
239
Location
Port Orange Florida
Wish I knew someone who could make the molds for these body's, I would take it from there, the vaccuum form is easy to build its the mold that's hard
 
Last edited by a moderator:

blak__jak

Senior Member
Messages
483
Location
amsterdam ohio
yea i've thought about taking an m/t body and filling it with some sort of heat proof substance like plaster of paris and than use that casting as a mold to make my own bodies. like you say the vacuum table itself isn't that hard to make. plenty of videos on youtube. one of these days i'll get around to trying it. any ideas on what to use to cast a mold.
 

Ryneito

Senior Member
Messages
191
Location
Greeley Colorado
Ive put some thought into this myself. Being the artest i am i was thinking about doing a mold out of modeling clay. I just never knew vacuum tables where easy to make. Im gonna have to look into this now..
 

bob c.

Senior Member
Messages
239
Location
Port Orange Florida
I found this on another site and thought it would do someone some good here .. I use to build formulastyle bodies at uni and the process goes like this.

1. Get blocks of polystyrene foam,get the denser stuff as it holds a smoother shape when sanded. 2. Make accurate sections at intervals from thick plywood or mdf. This gives you a guide to shape the foam. The more accurate and numerous the plywood sections the better, but remember wood takes longer to sand than foam. 2. With a hotwire cutter get the foam blocks into the appropriate size. Then in an alternating fashion glue the foam and wood section using a water based adhesive, such as "lioquid nails water base". 3. Begin shaping by sanding the foam areas. Remember to go slow here as it is easier to take material off than put it on. Long light strokes over big areas will get a smoother curve than short strokes. It is also very easy to over sand in the foam areas since the wood is much more difficult to sand. 4. Cover in a thin layer of epoxy or fiberglass-epoxy composite 5. Use a light automotive filler and cover the whole mold and fill in any big holes. 6. Sand the filler layer smooth with 2000grit as your final sandpaper. This is the longest step and the most important,go slow as any mistakes here will great affect the end finish. 7. Paint over it with acrylic paint. 8. Give it another sand with the finest grit you can get your hands on. 9. Apply moldrelease agent if necessary or gelcoat(a semi-deformable layer that provides aprotective layer to the mold to give it re-usability. 10. Ready to make your final product

Very time consuming process, but it's always better to go slow and get it right during the sanding steps than fixing errors after you waste time and money making faulty prototypes. Bog and bondo does dissolve polystyrene, hence a thin layer of epoxy or fiberglass is applied to protect the foam and the mold from impacts. I have heard of people using covering films used in R/C aerofoil construction substituting the epoxy layer.

Thanks to the original poster mocky for this......
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Ol' fart

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,238
Location
Saratoga CA
stuck

I could make the molds on my cnc machines if I had a digital file of the body. Can't find any. They could be any size because I could adjust the size on my CAD system to match the wheel base of a Redcat or any other car out there.
 

Ryneito

Senior Member
Messages
191
Location
Greeley Colorado
I don't know much about cnc machines or the programs. How hard is it to get the stock mt body into the system and then adjust accordingly? I ask only because they make it look so easy on tv. American chopper ect ....

How cool would a full size truck body be...that would be sweet..
 

Ildy666

Senior Member
Messages
2,321
Location
Haskell NJ
Ryneito said:
I don't know much about cnc machines or the programs. How hard is it to get the stock mt body into the system and then adjust accordingly? I ask only because they make it look so easy on tv. American chopper ect ....How cool would a full size truck body be...that would be sweet..
I know all these people have these pricey machines and make it look so easy...
 
G

Guest

Guest
The mold is one of the most costly part of the process. Thousands go into the mold in design/machine time and materials. If you have money to burn, no problem right? If you want to recoup your expenses that's another story.

For me, I'd always spend $200 - $300 for a body before spending months of my time on something that most likely would not turn out as nice.
 

RazorHobbies

Senior Member
Messages
155
Location
Baytown, Texas
Agreed however with laser scanners now like what we have its as simple as having a full size car come into the scanning area and wait for the scan after several passes to complete. Which takes about an hour to get the detail.

Then make a few changes here and their clean it up and scale it to size and mill it out or 3d print the dye.

Technology has certainly taken a lot of the pain staking processes out of making bodies.
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account on our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Members online

No members online now.

Latest posts

Top