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My "SUPER " Rampage MT PRO V3

MrMeatHooks

Senior Member
Messages
195
Location
Chico, CA
Ok, here is my new Rampage. I just finished the paint ( my first Lexan job ). I did alot to this truck already..


Here is a list of tasks I have done to this truck along with improvements and new parts-



1. I took the truck apart, finding the knuckles and transfer case bolts loose right off the bat, I decided to redo everything.



2. Replaced the crappy carb with a Walbro 998 w/K&N type filter, oiled and ready to go.



3. Increased the ride height of the truck by 1.50", total sag ( wheels hanging ) about 2.5". This truck, stock looks like a XT with big tires, and well, I wanted a monster truck. I simply bent the lower a-arm tabs down at a 45deg. angle. This allowed for ALOT more travel and better use of the suspension, while maintaining CV axle angles with ZERO bind, also the shocks do not max out on extension so there is no worries on ripping shocks apart when jumping..



Also, I set the shocks in the lower inner holes for more extensions and a bit more coil tension, also stops better as the weight does not transfer forward as much leaving the truck closer to level and maintaining better traction in the rear end.



Forgot to mention, as a guy who has done thousands of alignments in the last 12 years, I found that the back of this truck had WAY to much toe-in. I took the lower rear bushing out and flipped them to reduce positive toe. This did not eliminate toe, but it made it better. It rolls with less resistance like this. The thing is, when you apply power to those wheels they want to toe in naturally, as the wheels are always trying to pull ahead of the truck. With to much toe in, you get adverse effects on the tire wear and handling. Straight axles to independent axles, 99% of the time toe is zero.



4. The Jetpro pipe was added, stock motor and carb made this truck go sideways on dry pavement. The only issue is, I had to flip the gas tank around as the fuel cap was hitting the pipe. I was surprised as the directions said nothing about this, and have read nothing about this issue online. It works great now.



5. The body: Not what I expected.. but here is what I did. Metallic gray/black with metallic blue stripes and window tint spray. The tint was to dark after 2 coats, oops! Also, I flex-sealed the inside of the transmission gear cover to quiet down the chatter.



Future upgrades:



36cc FlowSystems engine from RAMtech-RC ( Ordered, just waiting )



https://www.facebook.com/eric.merlo.5?ref=tn_tnmn#!/media/set/?set=a.520505678008412.1073741825.100001469546145&type=1


Im not sure why the address did not work, please cut and paste.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

MrMeatHooks

Senior Member
Messages
195
Location
Chico, CA
Pics of susepension mod

Sergio said:
Nice looking truck. Can You post pictures of exacly what You did to rise your ride
Sure thing. It was very easy and made a huge difference. Before if I dropped the truck from 4 feet it would bottom out flat. Now, no bottoming out and more control.

I'll get a pic asap

Thanks for the complement BTW.
 

MrMeatHooks

Senior Member
Messages
195
Location
Chico, CA
Here is what I did. As an example of the difference, I can ball a fist thumbs up and slide under the frame.. It looks like the tires fit the truck now, not a stadium truck with bigfoot tires.

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/monthly_2013_04/010.jpg.0e8eb976598d6d81c1202350d8227a74.jpg
 

Dreggsta

Senior Member
Messages
818
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
hey man, that looks awesome. i know & agree w/what you said about the rear toe. i was going to change mine but in the research i did before i bought mine i read a few articles saying that the rear is like that to help when turning. it kinda does & doesn't make sense to me but these are different than our real rides. soo, not an arguement, jst making conversation. :)
 

Sergio

Senior Member
Messages
779
Location
Providence RI
MrMeatHooks said:
Here is what I did. As an example of the difference, I can ball a fist thumbs up and slide under the frame.. It looks like the tires fit the truck now, not a stadium truck with bigfoot tires.
Thanks i kind of new what You were saying but with The pictures Now im sure thanks Bro.
 

MrMeatHooks

Senior Member
Messages
195
Location
Chico, CA
Dreggsta said:
hey man, that looks awesome. i know & agree w/what you said about the rear toe. i was going to change mine but in the research i did before i bought mine i read a few articles saying that the rear is like that to help when turning. it kinda does & doesn't make sense to me but these are different than our real rides. soo, not an arguement, jst making conversation. :)
Yes, it will help in turning as the tires bite harder in dirt. This is not great for road surfaces as you will roll eaiser. What I did still gives you some positive toe. The truck drives better all around I noticed.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Avoid any on throttle landings. The extra suspension droop is hard on the drive cups and pins.
 

MrMeatHooks

Senior Member
Messages
195
Location
Chico, CA
Thanks for the tip. Throttle on landings will blow the cups out for sure, alog with twisting axles and drive lines.. Luckily in my motorcycle experience I can say throttle on in the air is a bad combo for all involved lol.

I want to upgrade all diff cups on the truck and get heavier drive axles/cv axles, any thoughs? Also the steering horns suck, anything better?
 
G

Guest

Guest
I want to upgrade all diff cups on the truck and get heavier drive axles/cv axles, any thoughs? Also the steering horns suck, anything better?
Tempering the cups and adding rings or sleeves around them add a lot of strength. There is a lot of info on the topic in the forum.

If you order a Hitec from DDM it will come with a free aluminum servo horn.
 

MrMeatHooks

Senior Member
Messages
195
Location
Chico, CA
Thanks. So, ditch dual servo for a single good one? Or did you mean replace both? Thanks again.

Also, I have read a bit on the tempering of the cups and adding copper rings to them for strength. I was just wondering if there is a better option, billet cups and better CV joints instead of dogbones.
 
G

Guest

Guest
MrMeatHooks said:
Thanks. So, ditch dual servo for a single good one? Or did you mean replace both? Thanks again. Also, I have read a bit on the tempering of the cups and adding copper rings to them for strength. I was just wondering if there is a better option, billet cups and better CV joints instead of dogbones.
A single 5755 is strong enough. It is best on 7.4v. If you run 6v, 2 would be better than one.

There are no aftermarket upgrades for the drive shafts. The dogbones seem to be stronger than the CVDs. A chromoly sleeve welded to a tempered cup is almost indestructible. MCD dogbones are a little stronger and will fit the MT.

http://www.largescalerc.com/mcdreardriveshaftdogboneevo2andevo3.aspx
 

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