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front cv /dogbone

andyken

Senior Member
Messages
692
Location
New Hampshire
And the list goes on...


I need front dogbone cv joints for my xb.


Are there any upgrades?


Guess i need to measure mine, now there is 128 and 130mm fronts?
 

BertR

Senior Member
Messages
1,674
Location
Shoshone,Idaho
I would get rid of the cv joints and do rear bones and hubs on all 4. It will be much stronger and easier to maintain,less parts to lose
 

rampagemt

Senior Member
Messages
2,557
Location
wisconsin,usa
BertR said:
I would get rid of the cv joints and do rear bones and hubs on all 4. It will be much stronger and easier to maintain,less parts to lose
Couldn't agree more. I am running all dogbones on mine and could be happier. Only think that happened to me was I lost a dogbone due to a suspension arm breaking during a crash but a dogbone leash would save that. Cvds theres a lot to maintain with all the stuff you gotta do already. The simpler the better.
 

bermodel

Senior Member
Messages
116
Location
Trieste ITALY
rampagemt said:
Couldn't agree more. I am running all dogbones on mine and could be happier. Only think that happened to me was I lost a dogbone due to a suspension arm breaking during a crash but a dogbone leash would save that. Cvds theres a lot to maintain with all the stuff you gotta do already. The simpler the better.
you say that dogbone be better than CVD ?? :confused:
 

rampagemt

Senior Member
Messages
2,557
Location
wisconsin,usa
The cvds require a lot maintanance, it could be that I didn't boot and grease them but with my 30.5 esp head on my dune runner it just chewed my cvds up that's there was huge grooves on the eyelet of the cvd.
 

bermodel

Senior Member
Messages
116
Location
Trieste ITALY
CVD personally gave me no problems, but with dog bone is not reduced steering angle?
 

Tehlugz

Junior Member
Messages
21
cvd's are superior for transferring power because the tolerances are tighter and it keeps the loaded parts at the best transfer angle which makes them more efficent

however the cruddy conditions the cats get run in can ruin them and cause allot of unnecessary wear a boot really is essential to promote the long life of a cvd

there are cvd parts available for other cars with improved tolerances

but all the ones i've seen would probably require modification to fit them

the quick fix is to run dog-bones all round as that reduces the

maintenance requirements some people have said it improves strength

but that shouldn't normally be the case* as the lash and shock on the dogbone pins is greater than the captured cvd pins simply because they have

more room to accelerate and then bind when the diff is active

as an example, try a one inch punch versus a three inch punch on a solid

object where you have less space to accelerate the shock delivered is

far lower ( seriously, try it. ) just don't blame your knuckle bruises on me!

if the cvd pins are also properly lubricated with a thick grease the lash shock is again reduced because the grease will have to flow out of the way on impact

and will act like a damper

so the technology is good, but what's going wrong?

-people don't maintain their cars well, a thick grease is really required here

-*our cvd's aren't built to the best tolerances, or out of the best materials

and crack far easier than they should

-they don't include boots, so you want to protect them? it's third party time

personally i'm looking into making an entirely new part rather than use the available ones because they just aren't upto the job in my opinion

something like:

http://www.nutechracing.com/english/ProductShow.asp?ID=866

appears to have tighter tolerances, if i can make it fit

or if i really have to, i may build my own from engineering stock:

http://www.indiamart.com/universaljoints/precision-universal-joints.html

if i manage to get something workable, i'll keep you posted
 

bermodel

Senior Member
Messages
116
Location
Trieste ITALY
since we are talking of CVD I ask a question to all of you ....

Have you ever noticed the difference between the CVD for MT-TT-DuneRunner?

are both original spare parts code 050009

 

rampagemt

Senior Member
Messages
2,557
Location
wisconsin,usa
Also some of mine didn't have a set screw on the tip for the pin it was just solid steel no way of removing pin. I believe all parts under a part # should all be exactly the same
 

larryo

Senior Member
Messages
109
I just rebuilt my CV for my TT with 5/16 round stock and hpi A arm pins.The 5/16 round stock was cut drilled and taped like the stock ones in my TT,then i heat treated them.

The pins i made out of the A arms pins out of a hip savage or hellfire,I had them kicking about from the 1/8 scale days.Just cut to fit the pins in and grind a flat spot for the set screw.

I did the because i was in a jam,the shop in town had not CV or dogbones to fix the truck,and it was going to be 2 months before he put in a order.
 

Dreggsta

Senior Member
Messages
818
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
i ordered some boots, hostile maybe. i don't remember the name right now. i planned on running them over the cvds w/lucas red n' tacky #2 grease (grease of choice for just bout everything, also water resistant) & then making the 3/4" copper type L diff cup covers. this sound like i'm on thr right path? i know the boots will rip. nothing new there for me.
 

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