Toe Adjustment for the rear $12 ea

[Sucram]

So I have had a bit of time to suss out the kit. While I havent had a chance to run it, I noticed the suspension doesn't have a lot of adjustment. You can sort of change the angles of the shocks a bit but its pretty basic (perhaps thats a better thing?!)


I mainly noticed that there is no toe for the rear and there is no caster for the front. Again, maybe thats a better thing.


But for those of you who want to play with the rear toe I have found a cheap solution using off the shelf parts for a baja.


Purchase 2 of these http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.272/.f


Remove teh stock hub, reuse your stock lower pin and wheel bearing. Rotate your upper camber arm horizontal and bolt the top arm down so you can adjust camber. You may need to run the orginal camber bolt and drill out the smaller holes that the baja hub uses.


The baja uses an angled insert to adjust toe, bolt that and your hub bearing carrier on with the 4 bolts, reuse your axle dog bone cups and wheel hex.


Go run it with the 1 or 2 deg toe on the rear and let me know how it handels


Note: It is also possible that you may increase the rear track (width) of the car. I am guessing maybe 3-5mm. I do have my baja which I could borrow parts for but I have not done it. There may be some small things I have missed like dog bones needing to be re-centered etc

 

[kryptonite]

first, great find. its hard for me to understand how that goes together, so a pic if you get one would be great.. these are basic entry level kits, so it didnt suprise me when i cracked open my first box to compare it with my 5b. little suspension tuning.. grr. my faverite thing. i guess the positive is that with the 4wd those things like rear camber and front castor arent very important. as you obvously know, the rear camber helps track straight and also helps in cornering. i found the 4wd pretty much drives itself perfect thru the turns and off the line. castor blocks would be nice depending on the terain we chose, but for the most part i find it pretty nutruel. i would like some diffrent shock positions available. the ones on the shock tower are useless becouse you can only use the outside hole on the tower..

 

[Sucram]

Here are some pics of a baja hub (borrowed)








Here you can see the baja hubs. The length between the lower arms on both rears are the same but you can see how the top bearing (for camber) mounts differently.


I couldnt really find a pic of a rampage hub, but here is a pic of the alloy replacement hubs

http://www.rampagehopups.com/product.sc?productId=269&categoryId=6

 

[kryptonite]

oh man. its funny that the baja doesn't look familuer, but everything else does.. so your saying to use the stock hub?

 

[IMADMAN]

Phatdad ran or runs the baja set-up-


http://www.redcatrampageforum.com/showthread.php?t=109I

 

[kryptonite]

ya, i see now. no pics tho. i'll have to look into that. sounds like a sweet mod for me on the TTruggy

 

[Sucram]

oh man. its funny that the baja doesn't look familuer, but everything else does.. so your saying to use the stock hub?

Yep, stock HPI hub or even alloy if you want, you can see the hubs in both pic's- they look different but because the hubs run the same distance on the lower control arm that part fits without mod. So just change the way the upper arm bolts to the hub and presto! But because the hub mounts the upper arm closer to the chassis it will have positive camber if you re-install the apper arm without adjusting.

Phatdad ran or runs the baja set-up-
http://www.redcatrampageforum.com/showthread.php?t=109I

Oh well, there you go. Someone found it before me

ya, i see now. no pics tho. i'll have to look into that. sounds like a sweet mod for me on the TTruggy

The more grip you have the more useful toe in becomes..., well on 1:1 cars anyway.

 

[Sucram]

You could do this in less then 20 mins, go pilfer your baja and let me know how it runs!

 

[DemonRC]

That's great info there. I'm going to defintely do this.


Also, you can adjust the caster on the front end. It's built the same as the 1/8 setups that use spacers on the pins that hold the upper arms. Our spacers are preset and c-clipped in, however, it should be simple to make some to give you more or less caster. Adding more spacers behind the tower and less in front of the tower pushes the upper arm back adding caster and vice versa.


Oh one last thing. Yes, the Rampage suspension setup is simple. We got two shock tower adjustment holes and 2 on the suspension arm (if your running the aluminim arms). We do have the 6 hole towers available to us though:

 

[Sucram]

re castor: Im not sure if that would be much of an adjustment on a wishbone strut. As it will only pull it forward when compressing, then bind...


It seems castor would be built into the hub angle. Or even the bend in the chassis.

 

[pup1970]

You could put spacers under the arm mounts for castor adjustments. That would also be putting pacers under the diff to though.

 

[DemonRC]

Doh! ur right. I'm thinking about my 1/8 truggy sitting in the garage with the pivot ball suspension. Forgot it's pivot ball only.