threadlock

[Cloach1]

I have blue on my metal to metal on the truck chassis and suspension. Do you guys go red on engine parts? Kinda leary of not being able to remove with red but worried about with heat build up the blue backing out. Thanks for the help.

 

[RampageHopUps]

I use red on my exhaust bolts if they are loose. Nothing else gets red.

 

[Silent_chaos]

Every single screw on my truck is red. xD xD

And when unscrewing, i always use wd40 or heat it up with hair dryer at a very close distance

 

[krashkrieg]

Note to self...never buy anything used from silent chaos

 

[Silent_chaos]

Note to self...never buy anything used from silent chaos

I don't sell my stuff xD

On another note, a lot of screws do fall down even tho i use red loctite..

Specially the cvd barrels and its screws/bars.. they always fall down. They KILL me..

To be honest, i was looking something more powerful..

 

[RampageHopUps]

You need to learn how to use the loctite. Cleaning the joint will make red permanent and no amount of WD-40 or hair drier heat will remove it.

 

[rcgasser]

wd40 to remove loctite???????????????????? I just can not see wd40 doing anything to dried loctite no way.

 

[Deluge]

60 seconds with a hot soldering iron usually breaks the red stuff loose. But I only use it if that particular fastener is going to see a ton of vibration.

 

[alfred e numan]

if you have one around you, go harbor freight and buy a pencel torch, careful around plastics with it, does good on loktite. a few high quality taps& dies is better than a wire brush on loktite too. stay away from the cheap stuff cheap taps will not extract the chip right building parts, and will only make about 80% threads-- even useless for removing loktite.

 

[alfred e numan]

yea, i got away fron allen heads long ago. use torx heads. life will be better--trust me. every garage needs a radial head drill press-- look for a rockwell fine one buy it. the old ones. get yourself a cheapo- x y axas vise too, about the only import worth having is rebranded palmgren. just spend a day cleaning it up, remove burrs, clean up the ways. the dial setting are pretty mich useless, but with glasses you can still get repeatable settings. on the drill presses, look for one that holds the chuck with a bol.t not a interference fitting-- morse taper. this will allow you to machine plastics- nothing harder unless ya like living with a drill chuck stuck in your chest. these simple tools will make any hobby -project have higher quality results.

 

[phreerider]

only blue , never had set screw loosen to failure. loctite dependent?....then something is missing....get a mini torque set it will help give proper feedback back...so you know the difference between set, squeeze, stretch and strip.

 

[Silent_chaos]

I guess also because my truck is 90% aluminum. Vibration travels faster in Al products.

Also why am i the only one here who uses wd40 to remove screws?

Even the whole internet uses it.. i just googled and plenty of people do it..

 

[Silent_chaos]

only blue , never had set screw loosen to failure. loctite dependent?....then something is missing....get a mini torque set it will help give proper feedback back...so you know the difference between set, squeeze, stretch and strip.

How to know what each screw what torque requires??

 

[RampageHopUps]

Yes, you are the only one that uses WD-40 to remove red loctite. I've been to Loctite seminars every year, for 20 years, and have never heard of that.

 

[Deluge]

Maybe the WD-40 is keeping the Loctite from bonding in the first place? Would explain why red isn't working for him. The threads are probably saturated with lube.

 

[Silent_chaos]

Maybe the WD-40 is keeping the Loctite from bonding in the first place? Would explain why red isn't working for him. The threads are probably saturated with lube.

No they're not saturated with lube, when i take off a part, i usually wash it with hot water, clean and rinse throughly, even brush it so that its clean as a whistle and dry as hell.. i have a major in mechanical engineering, im not dumb lol.

Thats how we used to remove rusted threadlocked bolts in power plants that are subject to very hot saudi desert climate (55deg C). And lol at seminar. Im guessing maybe the loctite brand is not good.

As for the wd40, just a really small squirt would do it. The fluid penetrates trough the screw's teeth and loosens it up. Less friction less tension.. ezpz

How do you think i did a complete xb rebuild? Yeah wd40 lol

 

[phreerider]

its not about specific #'s , it's about material limits, types and design of threads.

over time the "feedback " will train your hand ... with repetition and a torque set is not needed but good to learn for parameters of alloy differences and sizes.

a quick reference to start, there are plenty more and some with fundamental equations for load and stretch if the items are unique.

but for "feel" just takes practice AND it comes with mistakes

http://yetmans.mb.ca/kohler/page3/page3.html

 

[phreerider]

WD 40 --->releasing agent prelube.?.?maybe

there are some "penetrating solvent " for corrosion. i think blaster is the popular one best i remember.

heat ! nothing like a blue wrench to make a difference

 

[Silent_chaos]

Thanks. Will go through that

 

[bbuzzard]

The best stuff out there is Vibra-Stop...I found out about this in the motorcycle world. They even have a heatproof version and the best thing that has helped me with stripped hex bolts is there Bit-Biter. It stopped me from burning stuff up torching effed-up bolts and screws.

http://www.tectorius.com/tec_vibrastop_bottled.html