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New Member, New Dunerunner, Need advice on upgrades!

jandmt

Senior Member
Messages
128
Hi guys. Im Joe.

I got back into RC hobby a few months back. I used to have a bunch of on and off road cars 15 years ago, including 1/10, 1/8 and 1/4 scale models. Now I have a Traxxas Slayer Pro 4x4, and Im getting a Dunerunner in 4 days time.

I've done a lot of reading on recommended upgrades, but most posts were from 3-4 years ago. So Im hoping for an updated list of recommended mods.

Looking at doing anything and everything needed for reliable operation

  • Carb
  • Exhaust (sub $100 if possible, and no mods needed would be nice)
  • Kill switch
  • Intake manifold
  • Servos
Etc,

Looking for a master list of mods that everyone wants to do to their Dunerunner.

My total budget is about $550 for upgrades.


Thanks.
 

claude bigelow

Senior Member
Messages
1,010
Location
Jersey City, NJ
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
jandmt said:
Hi guys. Im Joe.I got back into RC hobby a few months back. I used to have a bunch of on and off road cars 15 years ago, including 1/10, 1/8 and 1/4 scale models. Now I have a Traxxas Slayer Pro 4x4, and Im getting a Dunerunner in 4 days time.

Ive done a lot of reading on recommended upgrades, but most posts were from 3-4 years ago. So Im hoping for an updated list of recommended mods.

Looking at doing anything and everything needed for reliable operation

Carb

Exhaust (sub $100 if possible, and no mods needed would be nice)

Kill switch

Intake manifold

Servos

Etc,

Looking for a master list of mods that everyone wants to do to their Dunerunner.

My total budget is about $550 for upgrades.

Thanks.
Hi Janmdt and welcome

I have a DR and run

a WT990 carb

a Jetpro rear pipe ($189 from DDM) I know it's over your budget but after mucking around with cheap pipes it works out cheaper to buy a Jetpro straight up.

Super Bee kill switch

DDM alloy inlet manifold with teflon gaskets

Have been running stock servos for 12 mths and throttle has just given up.I have a Hitech 645 on the way to replace it.

Also changed gearing to 29/31 pin gears.

Bearings will clap out with time and as they do I replace them with high speed industrial grade ones from the local bearing shop.Top quality and cheaper than buying through RC shops.

When you get the DR you'll notice that the front and rear tyres are different diameters which makes no sense given that the gearing front and rear is the same.

I run front tyres front and rear as they are larger diameter.

I also threw away the stock motor and replaced it with a Zenoh G290 with WT990 carb from DDM.

It goes like a nitro car now.
 

jandmt

Senior Member
Messages
128
Thanks for the info. But not looking at replacing the motor right off the bat. Whats wrong with the 30cc motor it comes with?
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
jandmt said:
Thanks for the info. But not looking at replacing the motor right off the bat. Whats wrong with the 30cc motor it comes with?
Apart from the pipe and carb there's nothing wrong with it.

Performance is very disappointing with the stock pipe.

I didn't find out until it was too late that the head bolts were loose from the factory and tore up the piston and bore.

I suggest you check EVERY bolt before you start it
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
Forgot you'll need a Snappy RC tank vent kit to let the fuel tank breathe

DDM have them
 

jandmt

Senior Member
Messages
128
can you post a link to the pipe you have? and are any mods needed to fit that pipe?
 

jandmt

Senior Member
Messages
128
can you tell me some more about changing the gearing please. Links to parts needed, and why its needed. Thanks.
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
jandmt said:
Never mind, I think this is the pipe you have http://www.davesmotors.com/jetpro-dune-runner-rear-mount-pipe.htmlsure does look sweet. I think Im going to pull the trigger on it.
That's the one.

There is also a side mount but I prefer the look of the rear mount.

No mods necessary other that taking off the lower section of the cage at the rear and replacing it with the pipe mount - direct fit.

Intake is here http://www.davesmotors.com/ada-billet-rc-cy-intake-manifold.html

Carb http://www.davesmotors.com/av990walbrowt990withbearing.html

Tank vent http://www.davesmotors.com/jj575.html

Kill switch http://www.davesmotors.com/tr210.html

Gears http://www.rcmodel.com.au/rc-car-parts/5-scale-hsp-upgrade-parts/052020-1-5-hsp-upgrade-parts-gear-set.html

The gear set is an Aussie link cause that's where I am but you should be able to pick it up locally by the part number.

I changed ratios to make it faster.

Stock it only does about 40 but with 29/31 its closer to 60 and still has great take off.

The pin type gears don't seem to generate/retain heat as badly as the thicker gear types.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

jandmt

Senior Member
Messages
128
Great. Thanks. One more question, the kill switch that rcpitstop sells for $23 seems to do the same thing as the $60 killer rc model. Any reason to spend the extra money on the super bee instead?

And I can't seem to did. That gear set stateside.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

jandmt

Senior Member
Messages
128
I'll be using my airtronics mt4 radio and rx461 4 channel receiver. Will that kill switch work? No need for bells and whistles. I'm not going to be running led lights, or data logging.
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
jandmt said:
Great. Thanks. One more question, the kill switch that rcpitstop sells for $23 seems to do the same thing as the $60 killer rc model. Any reason to spend the extra money on the super bee instead?And I can't seem to did. That gear set stateside.
No particular reason for Killer Bee

I use a generic one from here in Aus

The Killer was the first link I could find for your part of the world
 

zazarider

Junior Member
Messages
21
Location
Central Wisconsin
jandmt said:
Is it Lipo compatible? And can you adjust the low voltage kill limit to say 6.5V?
The one you posted should work out. RcPitstop also has lipo monitors that are only $11.52. You can either get the one that works for 2s lipos or the other one for NiCds. This is something that I will get, It will be a week or two. It allows you to see what is actually left in the tank as far as battery power.
 

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