my chimera won't start.........just replaced gears....

[Chimera]

So my gasoline chimera had an accident last fall.....broke both 31 and 29 steel gears, the diff cover, front shock tower and part of the roll cage. 2 week ago, I finally decided to fix it all. I turned the engine before doing any work, and it turned on right away.....although I could tell all the gears were shattered.


Long story short, I just replaced all the parts, but now, it won't bloody start! I let it sit for a couple of days for any fuel in the system to evaporate, but still no luck.


Any ideas?


Ps. My exhaust felL off and I need to buy the spring system....so, that's off right now. Not sure if that could be the issue......also, could it be the spark plug?

 

[wildstallion]

When you change to a tuned pipe the change in back pressure means it wont start unless you re-tune it significantly. Consequently I think your probably correct its not starting because your exhaust needs sorting.

 

[Phill]

Ps. My exhaust felL off and I need to buy the spring system....so, that's off right now. Not sure if that could be the issue......also, could it be the spark plug?

A 2 stroke needs the correct back pressure to run so I'd reckon the exhaust is the problem

 

[Ice_2k]

Without a pipe at all it's basically throwing most of the air/fuel mix out the exhaust hole immediately after sucking it, before actually igniting it.

 

[designed2survive]

Without a pipe at all it's basically throwing most of the air/fuel mix out the exhaust hole immediately after sucking it, before actually igniting it.

Nope! The engine will start and run without a pipe with the proper tuning of the carb. Just not recommended!

 

[therealrsr]

Nope! The engine will start and run without a pipe with the proper tuning of the carb. Just not recommended!

Well he did say "most" so actually, Yep!

OP I'd reset carb to factory, recommend a new gasket, and retune from there.

 

[Chimera]

Thanks all. Can someone remind me how to go about tuning carb from scratch? I've done it once of course, but don't remember what I did with the two knobs.....turn all the way to left and then turn half a turn or something like that...sorry...can someone please remind me?

 

[Ice_2k]

Close all the way to the right (do not tighten!), then open LSN (closest to the engine) 1 1/4 and HSN 1 1/2

 

[designed2survive]

LSN= Low Speed Needle

HSN= High Speed Needle

There are plenty of threads on tuning. Do a little search.

 

[Chimera]

Thanks guys. Put the exhaust back on....half ass, since I'm missing two springs.....

Turned LSN/HSN off....then 1 1/4 on LSN and 1 1/2 on HSN. ISN'T TURNING ON......

 

[Ice_2k]

my chimera won't start.........just replaced gears....

Check for spark. Also, if you pulled lots of times it might be flooded, take out spark plug, turn the car over and pull the pull start 10 times or so, this will throw out the extra gas from the engine.

 

[Chimera]

Check for spark. Also, if you pulled lots of times it might be flooded, take out spark plug, turn the car over and pull the pull start 10 times or so, this will throw out the extra gas from the engine.

I installed exhaust pipe seal and the springs. Good as new. But it turned on but stayed on for 10 seconds.

I the took off the alternator system as I thought that might be the issue. The spark plug was dirty so I cleaned it. But the wire going to the top of the spark plug doesn't spark with a metal object when I pull....hence me taking the alternator system off. I sanded some rust away and put it all back together. Still no spark. Could be spark plug, but even without the spark plug, it won't spark.

Any ideas?

 

[Ice_2k]

I don't really understand how you're testing for spark. The way you should do it is take out the spark plug and touch it's electrode against the head of the engine and pull the starter. You should see the spark. Don't do it in direct sunlight, as it will be difficult to see it. Also, try leaning the LSN a bit and give the idle screw a couple of clockwise turns, until you get it started.

 

[Chimera]

I don't really understand how you're testing for spark. The way you should do it is take out the spark plug and touch it's electrode against the head of the engine and pull the starter. You should see the spark. Don't do it in direct sunlight, as it will be difficult to see it. Also, try leaning the LSN a bit and give the idle screw a couple of clockwise turns, until you get it started.

I was just putting a metal object (screw driver) next to the wire that would go to the spark plug (after taking it off of course), and then pulling the starter. I understand that there needs to be some sparks if the system is functioning properly. no?

the idle screw could be the issue (unlikely), but after closing it completely (turning it to the right all the way), i 'open' it two turns to the left. Am i doing it wrong?

 

[Ice_2k]

Not really sure how the screw driver would work, since you're not closing the circuit, but I might be missing something. The way I indicated works for sure. Regarding the idle screw, it is indeed unlikely that it is your problem, but a common issue I ran into with difficulties starting the engine was too rich mix on the low needle, causing easy flooding. More throttle helps this. Until you figure out this problem, you can leave the idle screw even tight all the way to the right, just be aware that when the engine starts, the car will probably want to roll by itself so it might be a good idea to have it off the ground.

 

[Chimera]

Not really sure how the screw driver would work, since you're not closing the circuit, but I might be missing something. The way I indicated works for sure. Regarding the idle screw, it is indeed unlikely that it is your problem, but a common issue I ran into with difficulties starting the engine was too rich mix on the low needle, causing easy flooding. More throttle helps this. Until you figure out this problem, you can leave the idle screw even tight all the way to the right, just be aware that when the engine starts, the car will probably want to roll by itself so it might be a good idea to have it off the ground.

understood. thank you.

can you please explain again how to check the spark? i couldn't visualize it when you first explained it.

 

[Ice_2k]

You need the electrode of the plug to touch the head of the engine, the place where the plug goes into the engine. Doing that closes the circuit which is normally closed by the body of the plug screwing into the engine head. The plug needs to be inclined just enough so you can see the electrode as that's where the spark will be.

 

[Chimera]

You need the electrode of the plug to touch the head of the engine, the place where the plug goes into the engine. Doing that closes the circuit which is normally closed by the body of the plug screwing into the engine head. The plug needs to be inclined just enough so you can see the electrode as that's where the spark will be.

Hi.

Tested the spark plug....works just fine with plenty of clear spark with each pull.

I closed the idle screw to the right, then opened one turn to the left for good measure.

High and Low are at 1.5 and 1.25 turns respectively.

i close the choke, pull to clear (it doesn't clear), then open the choke and pull (used to start right away!) but nothing. Doesn't start.

i took the plug off this afternoon and left it all open, hoping that my issue is flooding. i'm guessing that given the fact that it did start and ran for 10 seconds, the engine itself must be ok....i'm thinking that it's getting too much fuel and is flooding. just a guess though.

any ideas?

 

[Ice_2k]

Did you try holding the Tx throttle WOT while pulling?

 

[Chimera]

Did you try holding the Tx throttle WOT while pulling?

Sorry, can you explain what you mean?