Finally broke the engine bolt loose LITERALLY!

[str8jailbird]

Just like it says, I told a few folks on here that the 2 engine mount bolts from the bottom of the chassis were stuck. Well, I drilled the head off of one and attempted to easy out the other. I was coaxing it out trying not to strip the head with the easy out and "SNAP", thought I had finally broke it loose to get it out. Boy was I wrong it actually broke the fan shroud where it goes into the engine. What a bummer. Oh well, I just ordered the chrome plated shroud from DDM. What the hell, for $3.00 more for a little bling. I don't think that they used red lock tight at the factory, I think they used JB weld and had he-man tighten them in there!

 

[Piranha2]

well, bad news, good news......I hate that noise....prying...prying....SNAP....ok what broke free? You wanted chrome anyways. I've taken my gearplate off a dozen times in 2 wks and am just waiting for the crankcase to snap!

 

[kryptonite]

its that freakin red loc-tite!! someone should send a teligram..QUIT USING LOC-TITE

 

[kg2mb]

Mine came out by First using Mini Butane Gas-Powered Iron Radioshack #


64-2188 mini blow torch,concentrating the flame on the shroud,rite where the bolts go thru.held it there for almost 2mins...screws came out.But,i ruined one of the heads because my 3mm bit had some wear,SO i hammered a T20 bit into it and that got it off no broken bolts.How did i know to do this?Same thing happened when i tried to remove set screws from my previous FG MT hubs REd Loctite!So, in summary.Use alot of heat,I don't think a 60watt soldering iron can penetrate the alloy case and warm up the loctite back to its liquid form.PS be shure you have a way to put a fire: fire extinguisher handy And Remove the Fuel tank

 

[mooman007uk]

The t20 bit is what I used to get an engine screw out when I first stripped it down...the hammering the bit in on the screw head breaks the bond somewhat and the t20 is such a tight fit it don't strip so out it comes....it is now a permanent tool in my box (but get a good one like a craftsman or it'll snap) I was lucky I only had 1 screw that was stuck

 

[str8jailbird]

Well the RC Screwz kit came in today now I just have to wait for the new shroud to come in. I checked and DDM shipped it today so it should be here by this coming Monday. I tried heating the remains of the bolt up (the one wtuck in the chunk of engine shroud) with a propane torch. The bit of shroud is in a vice and I am just doing this to see how much it takes. After over 2 minutes, NOTHING. I'm telling you guys I swear one of those Chinese factory workers is getting their jollies because they used JB weld!?!?! That sucker is really in there. I used my Craftsman vice grips to try and get the portion out while is was still smoking hot n it isn't happening. Sheez Louise, WTF! Kind of glad actually, now I don't have to worry about any residual bits of that cursed Locktight remaining in the old shourd to bind up the new bolts. What the heck, I just use Blue on everything and never had a problem. It's more than enough for my applications even on engine mount bolts. Just use a little more and I've NEVER had a bolt vibrate loose with it. Permatex Blue rules!

 

[chucked]

you guys must be using crappy tools, I've never had a problem

 

[kryptonite]

you guys must be using crappy tools, I've never had a problem

i don't think its really crappy tooling. BUT YOU HAVE A POINT.. it is the tooling. even good tools that you buy at depot or lowes is not good enough for us. one thing to keep in mind is that you will most likly never strip a screw if you use the better tools that you will find at the hobby shops. but i must admit. i am now using kobalt allen keys. they round off quick so i have many sets. i try not to use the rounded heads for anything as they don't grab good. the balls also snapp off in the screw wich sucks! if you swing the shells for hobby grade tooling you will never strip a screw under normal coditions..

 

[str8jailbird]

If you consider Snap-on and Craftsman crappy then I am guilty! I never had an issue with any of my other Rc's and these tools and the ends and corners of all my hex drivers are still sharp and not rounded. I used to have a crappy set when I was a kid and first got into RCing but scrapped them a long time ago. I would love to have a complete set of huty's but man are those expensive. I'd have more wrapped up in tools than I do in the Rampage itself.

 

[kryptonite]

If you consider Snap-on and Craftsman crappy then I am guilty! I never had an issue with any of my other Rc's and these tools and the ends and corners of all my hex drivers are still sharp and not rounded. I used to have a crappy set when I was a kid and first got into RCing but scrapped them a long time ago. I would love to have a complete set of huty's but man are those expensive. I'd have more wrapped up in tools than I do in the Rampage itself.

ya im not sure bout those keys. to rich for my blood.. i was pullin my motor for the first time today and they really used plenty of loc-tite. was thinkin bout your carnage. glad you got it all out but im even more glad i didnt have the same problem as you. i was nervouse with the wrenchs waiting for one to round off. lucked out.

 

[chucked]

Its not so much the brand, its how much they have been used, gotta cut the ends back every so often or buy new ones. I used a kobalt set to pull my engine apart. Ive also never broken a ball end off and I work on rc's 2 days a week at the local hobby shop, not to mention my own stuff. I know lots of tricks for getting broken bolts out, and almost none include a dremel. My best trick is to weld a nut onto the end of a snapped off or stripped bolt, let it cool, then pull it out. Ive never had that not work and I know I've done it hundreds of times.

 

[str8jailbird]

Its not so much the brand, its how much they have been used, gotta cut the ends back every so often or buy new ones. I used a kobalt set to pull my engine apart. Ive also never broken a ball end off and I work on rc's 2 days a week at the local hobby shop, not to mention my own stuff. I know lots of tricks for getting broken bolts out, and almost none include a dremel. My best trick is to weld a nut onto the end of a snapped off or stripped bolt, let it cool, then pull it out. Ive never had that not work and I know I've done it hundreds of times.

#1 My tools as I've already stated are pristine and not rounded still having "sharp corners" on my Hex drivers and keys (still can't go for the Hudy's)


#2. Never broke a ball end off myself but those were not the set I was using as I didn't need a ball head for the engine bolts


#3, Cmon chucked, I was working in my RC room. Let me clarify that for all of you. My RC room shares my reloading presses for my rifles and pistols. Being the fact that I also store powders, propellents and primers in there flame type tools are OUT! Most of us don't weld! Boy I wish I did or had someone close by who was skilled at it because that would have saved me a BIG headache. But being that you kind of threw that out there, how are you at fabricating???? I may be looking for a rear brace when the new pipe comes in as you know the stock brace won't work with Sprint's rear dom.?!?!? Just throwing that out there myself, My fabbing usually requires a 45 minute drive to my buddy who is currently building his custom chopper so asking him to take his time from that for my RC interest is asking a little much at the moment. I really wish I had the tools and know how to do all that, but I am just a lowly Pa redneck with an insatiable Rc addiction.

 

[chucked]

Im just sayin, Im not trying to flame or anything, that's just what happened with me. I buy the $4 metric allen wrench set from lowes every few months, I wish they just sold 1.5mm-4mm. I have fabricated some custom parts in the past, my most recent is my servo arm for the steering.

 

[str8jailbird]

I didn't hink you were, but hey, I got to try and get some guys out there who fab parts to, well fab me some parts! lol. No I was just trying to clarify that for you folks. There are a lot of us who can do small mods. I did one for my 5B with the RPM rear arm mod that solved the breaking rear turnbuckles. Usually though when it comes to welding, cnc milling and latheing the average enthusiasts such as myself possess neither the skils nor the tools to accomplish this. Granted I do reload quite a bit of custom ammunition for just about snything smaller than 50 BMG. Yeah, it is a skill when you are talking seating bullets and making sure your COL's are withing 10000 of an inch. Making sure your powder charges are within 1/10 of a grain or less to ensure consistency. But that is easily handled by mathmatics and a steady hand. I never could use any type of lathe very well. That's why I have a few friends who do. Unfortuneately this is the time of year that they usually start the new projects and I really don't want to ask for favors when they are in the middle of big projects.

 

[mooman007uk]

The bracing on the rampage is a big issue I think and several of us are working on it...I'm a vice,drill,file man at the moment like the majority of us here so it's slow going...but I'm hoping my MT cage design when complete can be sent to someone like sprint to fab from chrome moly tubing so it can be offered to everyone else, I know sprint is working on a brace and clubin will be too when he gets his dom so in time we'll have a selection of owner inspired upgrades that we know will work with specific set ups....


I think us ramp owners are lucky in the respect that we are all R and D people at the moment as the ramp is still so new and few companies seem to want to get on the bandwagon like they did with the 5b but that is to our advantage because we all listen to each others ideas and take them on board.


I think, and I'm sure you'll agree, the rampage owners club is probably one of the best ones there is...a tight knit community of good people with a sense of humour and comradery...everyone give yourself a big pat on the back.


And lets not forget the effort being made by Rob and Darin who listen to us guys and address the issues we have.

 

[Kaz the Minotaur]

You had me real excited when you said 50 BMG.

 

[chucked]

I would love to get my hands on a cnc machine, or a bridge port or something. I have access to a lathe, drill press, and lots of hand tools, that's about it.

 

[str8jailbird]

You had me real excited when you said 50 BMG.

Yeah, a buddy of mine has a Barrett in single shot and asked me to reload some for him. That would require me buying a new press (the throw on a standard is not long enough by far) new dies, shell holders and not to mention calipers, mic's etc. The start up cost alone would crush him not to mention the fact that the case capacity would only yeild around 70-75 rounds per pound of powder. he would never shoot it enough to make it cost effective.


Back to the rear brace issue. I talked to my buddy working on the chopper. He and I have this Tuesday off. I gave him a small schematic of what I am looking for. He told me that with some chromloy tubing and his mig he could fab me a working rear brace and in fact said a WHOLE roll cage. So this Tues we will start working on one. I have some ideas but need to get the new pipe to get exact measurements. If it goes as planned the 3 piece design of the current stock cage will turn into a one piece with removable cross members to ease in installation. I will definately post pics and if the interest is enough will gladly send a design and if need be a new fabbed brace to Sprint77 and Rob for possible refabbing to make it a go for others interested.

 

[Bigpopa64]

I was trying to switch my engine out and stripped the screws any ideas on how to get them out I tried drilling them out with a hand drill for the screws to be cheap they are hard to drill out and does anyone know what size screws they are thanks

 

[Bigpopa64]

Ok thanks to Utube got the stripped screws off hammered a star bit into the the screw
One that's a little bit bigger then the stripped out screw also figured out the size of the screw M5×25M part #50092