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Diff Out Cups

therealrsr

Member
Messages
83
Location
St. Louis, MO
I run copper tube sleeves over them, but still most vulnerable part for me. Frustrating.


I know 5th scale is not getting as much attention, but someone please build better upgrades. Given cross compatibility of the part on several Redcats should be able to sell.


I like the truck a lot so if Redcat is lurking consider this constructive criticism. Part was not up to task, so you made a hardened set that was still not up to task, then you added on a sleeve which was probably copying your customers trying to address the problem. I would argue the better solution is obvious, improve the build material/manufacture. I for one would greatly appreciate it, and it would allow me to enjoy your fine product much more.
 

RampageHopUps

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,865
Location
Chandler, AZ
Yes, Redcat watches these posts and I also meet with them monthly.

The main problem is the steel isn't available that we want.

I will ask Phatdad if he can make some diff cups for us.
 

Ol' fart

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,238
Location
Saratoga CA
7075rc

I add a stainless steel tube cut to length. Wall thickness is .078 seems to work. No complaints anyway.
 

therealrsr

Member
Messages
83
Location
St. Louis, MO
Well the two people who I wished would respond did, can't get any better than that...Thanks Ram and Ol' Fart.

I know the sleeves help and could hold a cracked one together for a while, both my breaks were very similar location (bottom of cup towards shaft. offset to one side) and didn't show until the sleeve was removed or slid off.

I fully admit being rough on them, but that's the fun for me.
 

phreerider

Senior Member
Messages
1,111
i've had good success with copper. can't rememebr the last cup that split , the cvd's seemingly more frequent for me...they need bands! i have not tried anything with front cvds, pretty tight spot , they might work with 7075 front bearing carrier.
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
My stock DR ones were breaking at the pin hole.

Now using MT ones.
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
Ol said:
I add a stainless steel tube cut to length. Wall thickness is .078 seems to work. No complaints anyway.
Hi Ol Fart

You're a bit far away for me to order tube from you.

What ID are you using?
 

therealrsr

Member
Messages
83
Location
St. Louis, MO
Phee - Do you run HPI size wheels with adapters (RAMtech in my case)? Just wondering if that is making difference. Also, I have copper sleeves crimped on the cvd's as well.

Phill - 50031 http://www.redcatracing.com/50031 says compatible to DR, MT, RALLY and TT. So probably not a Chimera answer. I wish those guys would spec their parts. I did notice it was #46 on the MT parts when sorted by popularity vs. chimera where they are #7 & 8. :mad:
 

phreerider

Senior Member
Messages
1,111
yes therealrsr, HPI adapters(from DADs pitstop has the threads for axle) and big fat tall trenchers on all 4.

may add sleeves onto cvd then. not a huge issue but them splitting IS the failure point when they do. thanks!
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
therealrsr said:
Phee - Do you run HPI size wheels with adapters (RAMtech in my case)? Just wondering if that is making difference. Also, I have copper sleeves crimped on the cvd's as well.Phill - 50031 http://www.redcatracing.com/50031 says compatible to DR, MT, RALLY and TT. So probably not a Chimera answer. I wish those guys would spec their parts. I did notice it was #46 on the MT parts when sorted by popularity vs. chimera where they are #7 & 8. :mad:
These are what I'm using

http://www.rcmodel.com.au/rc-car-parts/5-scale-hsp-spare-parts/50031-1-5-diff-joint-cups-hsp-spare-part.html

Same part number but different colour

The bronze ones came stock on the Dr and were snapping at the pin

These seem better.

You reckon Chimera parts are hard to get?

Try a DR!!
 

Todd

Junior Member
Messages
11
We also need an aluminum front Shock tower for the chimera
 

Ice_2k

Senior Member
Messages
1,387
Phill said:
The bronze ones came stock on the Dr and were snapping at the pinThese seem better.
The bronze-colored ones came as an upgraded part and were launched at about the same time as the 32cc engine. Rob said they were an upgrade over the black ones, not the other way around.
 

Ol' fart

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,238
Location
Saratoga CA
Phill said:
Hi Ol FartYou're a bit far away for me to order tube from you.

What ID are you using?
It is a metric size, just match the OD of the black cup. The hardened one

( golden) is a bastard size.
 

Ol' fart

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,238
Location
Saratoga CA
phreerider said:
i've had good success with copper. can't rememebr the last cup that split , the cvd's seemingly more frequent for me...they need bands! i have not tried anything with front cvds, pretty tight spot , they might work with 7075 front bearing carrier.
Correct, the sleeved CVD will not fit on a stock carrier.
 

therealrsr

Member
Messages
83
Location
St. Louis, MO
Is HSP Redcat's Rowan/King? Or just different distribution/labeling from same manufacturer? Never knew about this.

Ol' Fart - given the only alternative right now (and for a while) is $45 for a full set of non sleeved you got some pricing power. Just trying to inspire, run your business the way that makes sense to you.
 

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